Table of Contents
- Pizza in Lisbon
- Lisbon Pizza Guide
- Research Lisbon Hotels
- Hungry for More in Lisbon?
- Pin It for Later
- About the Authors
- Learn European Portuguese
Many restaurants have revised their hours and menus due to COVID-19. Some may close, either temporarily or permanently, without notice. Be sure to check this restaurant’s website for updated information before your visit.
Finding pizza in Lisbon is easy.
The city has dozens, if not hundreds, of pizzerias and Italian restaurants in tourist zones, malls and residential neighborhoods. Though many Lisbon pizzerias sell slices and pies to hungry tourists and locals looking for a cheap meal, others follow artisan pizza traditions and produce pies in wood-fired fornos.
While there’s nothing wrong with eating at typical pizza shops, intrepid pizza fans can eat excellent pizzas in Lisbon that rival pies sold in the pizza capitals of Naples and New York. All it takes is a little planning and an advance reservation or two.
Pizza in Lisbon
Though our pizza expectations were low when we moved to Lisbon in 2019, we’ve spent more than a year seeking out quality pies in our Portuguese home base. After eating mediocre pies recommended online, we eventually found real deal pizza in Lisbon by following our noses and consulting with trusted friends and food experts.
It’s important to remember that Lisbon shares open borders with fellow EU member Italy. While it may not be Italians who fabricate the best pizzas in Lisbon, the Italian influence is clear.
With many Italian tourists and expats coursing through the city’s seven hills, an abundance of pizza feeds their demand for a taste of home. Additionally, Portugal’s place in the EU trading zone allows the nation to affordably procure great Italian ingredients like fresh DOP Mozzarella di Bufala from Campania.
The top Lisbon pizza shops also source local ingredients. Not only do Portuguese farmers grow an abundance of quality fruits and vegetables, but Portuguese pork products are some of the best in the world.
Lisbon Pizza Guide
Our Lisbon pizza guide showcases nine pizzerias that take the art of pizza seriously. While these pizzerias serve the gamut from traditional Italian pies to modern variants, the commitment to quality shines through at each.
Some of these pizzerias have invested in traditional wood fired ovens and all show a rare dedication to their craft. You can eat at all nine pizzerias or just pick one depending on your level of pizza obsessiveness, your wallet and your time.
The city’s hilly yet compact center makes a Lisbon pizza crawl doable. Some of the best pizzerias are in the center of town and others are easily accessible by tram, Uber or train.
The Best Pizza in Lisbon
Eating pizza in Lisbon isn’t a big commitment, with most pizza meals costing under €20 even with a drink or two. Plus, there’s no need to travel since most neighborhoods have pizza shops that offer dining, takeaway and delivery services.
However, a few Lisbon pizzerias stand above the rest and justify a special trip. These pizzerias rarely cost more than their pizza brethren and don’t require much advance planning. However, you may need to wait in line or make a reservation to score a table.
When you’re deciding where to eat pizza in Lisbon, we recommend starting at the following three pizzerias:
Tozzi Forneria Moderna
The team behind Tozzi Forneria Moderna proves that you don’t have to have a fancy pizza oven or Italian birth certificate to create world-class pizza. Originally from Brazil, Heitor ‘Tozzi’ Americo and Marina Wisniewski create some of the best pies we’ve ever eaten. Anywhere. Including Italy.
In many ways, this culinary duo channels Franco Pepe’s spirit in their classic approach to fermenting dough for 48 hours. Though they don’t have the famous pizzaiolo’s pedigree or Pepe in Grani‘s wood-fired oven, they manage to create pizza magic in a special electric oven that heats to 350°C (approximately 660°F).
Armed with a recommendation from Joāo Pedro Erthal from nearby coffee shop Milkees, we ventured to Tozzi Forneria Moderna with managed optimism. Although we trust Erthel’s opinion, this pizzeria is a relatively new entry to the Lisbon pizza scene and doesn’t have an online buzz… yet.
Based on the quality of the two pies we ate, Tozzi Forneria Moderna immediately soared to the top of our Lisbon pizza list. The shop’s traditional Pepperoni pie was an instant classic while its seasonal Française pizza creatively topped with figs, brie, lemon cream and almonds was a revelation.
But, despite the variety of toppings, we were all about the crust. Supple with just the right amount of char, this crust took us straight to Campagna where Neapolitan pizza was invented in the 19th century. Closing our eyes, we practically felt like we were eating pies in the heart of Napoli as opposed to central Lisbon.
Americo and Wisniewski represent the best of Lisbon’s culinary scene with their curious passion and sense of adventure. Their simply decorated, white-walled pizzeria isn’t fancy. The space isn’t large and doesn’t offer a beautiful terrace or amazing view. But none of that matters to true pizza fans like us.
At the end of the day, it’s all about the quality of the pizza and the genuine friendliness of service. And Tozzi Forneria Moderna excels at both of those in spades.
Combine pizza at Tozzi Forneria Moderna with a visit to the nearby Gulbenkian Museum. As a bonus, this Lisbon museum offers free admission on Sunday afternoons.
Tozzi Forneria Moderna is located at Rua Latino Coelho 69A, 1050-132 Lisboa.
Sparsely decorated with an industrial vibe, Lupita is another Lisbon pizza shop with Brazillian owners who understand the importance of good dough. However, unlike Tozzi Forneria Moderna, this pizzeria eschews traditional Neapolitan traditions in favor of fusing elements from Portugal, Italy and the United States.
Daryl immediately noticed the New York connection when he tasted lemon zest atop the crispy base of our pizza. Co-owner Duda Ferreira later validated his suspicion by sharing that he and Marcelo Parent had consulted with Anthony Falco, the pizza guru previously associated with hipster icon Roberta’s Pizza in Brooklyn.
Again proving that good pizza starts with good dough, the Lupita team ferments two local flours (ancient grain and double zero) for 48 hours to achieve the desired texture. Lupita sources most of its ingredients from local producers in Portugal except for the handful that are unique to Italy.
Lupita’s menu features seven pies ranging from traditional (Margharita and Marinara) to exotic (Annanás and Cogumelos). Not your average mushroom pizza, the Cogumelos boldly adds three cheeses and lemon garlic cream to the mix. We haven’t tried the Annanás pie made with Azorean pineapples yet but, after hearing Ferreira’s enthusiasm for the unconventional and controversial topping, it’s on our list.
Since Lupita is located in Lisbon’s Cais do Sodré neighborhood, you can take a walk along the river front before or after your meal.
Lupita Pizzaria is located at Rua de S. Paulo 79, 1200-427 Lisboa, Portugal.
Valdo Gatti puts its mission statement on the wall for all to see. Translated into English, it reads “Italian Natural Artisan Pizza. Genuine. Simple. Good.”
This Bairro Alto pizzeria doesn’t just put these words on the wall. Starting with Italian wholewheat flour, Valdo Gatti sources most of its organic ingredients from small producers in Italy and Portugal.
Drinks like water and wine are natural here too. Owner António Cardoso proudly let us know that even the tap water they serve, filtered with an ionized-alkaline of ph9.5, is special.
As we learned during our pizza party for two, Valdo Gatti creates more than a dozen ‘Italian-style’ thin crust pizzas while providing the option for diners to create custom pies with different sauces, vegetables and proteins. This Lisbon pizzeria also offers a daily pie topped with seasonal ingredients.
During our visit, we shared creamy, dreamy Tiramisu after eating Cappricciosa and Margherita pies. The Cappricciosa pie didn’t disappoint with its melange of tomato, mozzarella, artichoke, olives, mushrooms, ham and spicy salami. We also enjoyed Valdo Gatti’s Margherita which was topped with Mozzarella di Bufala DOP Campana, tomato and fresh basil.
Solid Lisbon Pizzerias
Lisbon’s pizza game isn’t limited to three great pizzerias. Instead, the city has several solid options, many offering unique dining experiences and pie styles.
Though we’ve rarely met a pizza we wouldn’t happily eat, some pies are better than others. Depending on your mood and where you’re located, the following four Lisbon pizza restaurants are worth a visit:
The location of Pizzeria Casanova justifies a visit on its own merit. This pizzeria’s expansive terrace literally faces the Tejo River and offers delightful views of distant Barreiro, Montijo and Almada to diners who dine at an outdoor table.
However, inside Pizzeria Casanova is the epicenter of the action. This is where the pizzeria’s staff prepares Roman-style thin crust pizzas in two wood-fired ovens.
After two decades in Lisbon, Pizzeria Casanova is not a hidden pizza gem. Since the pizzeria doesn’t take advance reservations, crowds queue nightly while waiting for an available table. It even gets crowded on weeknights, though the wait doesn’t usually take too long.
We waited in line for about 20 minutes during our midweek summertime dinner and were rewarded with an outside table facing the water. We were also rewarded with Diavola and Napoletana pizzas served promptly along with an affordable, chilled bottle of San Pellegrino sparkling water.
Casanova’s excellent, professional servers keep the Lisbon stalwart running while its pizza makes customers like us happy.
Contrary to its name, ZeroZero doesn’t just use double zero flour in its artisanal dough. This Lisbon pizzeria combines Italian milled 00 flour with other flour in a process that involves 14 hours of pre-fermentation followed by 48 hours of fermentation. And this is all before the team bakes each pie in a wood-fired oven.
ZeroZero opened its first location in Príncipe Real back in 2015 before adding locations in Parque das Nações (2017) and the Time Out Market (2018). Each location has its merits, with the main merit being ZeroZero’s crunchy thin crust pizza.
ZeroZero offers more than just pizza. Though we observed quite a few people eating pasta and charcuterie around us, we stuck to mission and ordered two pies – Pizza di Graziano with spicy Calabrese salami and Pizza Salsiccia e Provola Affumicata with sausage and cherry tomatoes.
Beyond pizza, we couldn’t resist ordering a Prosecco cocktail with vodka, passion fruit juice and red fruits from ZeroZero’s Prosecco bar. We also ordered a Caipirinha, a drink popular with Lisbon’s large Brazilian population and an old favorite of ours.
Head to ZeroZero’s Time Out location if you’re in a rush or can’t score a reservation in Principe Real or Parque das Nações.
ZeroZero has multiple Lisbon locations. The original pizzeria is located at Rua da Escola Politécnica 32, 1250-102 Lisboa, Portugal.
Refeitório do Senhor Abel
Refeitório Senhor Abel caught our eye as we were walking to a nearby Marvila cafe for coffee. Located in the former Abel Pereira da Fonseca wine storeroom, the pizzeria’s grand space is nothing short of eye-catching. In light of our ongoing love affair with the Italian food staple, our return a few hours later was inevitable.
Bright and cheerful, the Marvila pizzeria serves pies created by pizzaiolo Roberto Mezzapelle, a Sicilian chef who sources Italian ingredients for his Lisbon restaurant. We shared two – a classic Neapolitan Margherita pie with Mozzarella di Bufala and a spicy pie topped with spianata, nduja and ricotta. Both were excellent with crisp crusts and wonderful flavors.
Spend the day in Marvila. The emerging, hip Lisbon neighborhood has breweries and coffee shops along with unique galleries. It’s also a short bus or Uber ride from the Museu Nacional do Azulejo – Lisbon’s gorgeous tile museum.
Refeitório do Senhor Abel is located at Praça David Leandro da Silva 5, 1950-242 Lisboa, Portugal.
We discovered Margarita Lisboa soon after we moved to Lisbon. Located in the Arroios Market, just a ten minute walk from our original Estefânia apartment, this pizzeria attracted us with its wood-fired pizza oven and tropical cocktail vibe.
Margarita Lisboa’s owner isn’t Portuguese, Brazilian or Italian. Although José Machado hails from Venezuela, his pizzeria skillfully combines the best of Portugal and Italy in creations like the Piri Piri pie topped with mozzarella cheese and piri piri peppers. Bottled piri piri sauce is also available for those seeking an extra kick.
Away from tourist attractions, this pizzeria’s prices skew relatively low with pies costing from €7.90 to €11.90 at the time of our most recent visit. Since crafted cocktails like margaritas and mojitos are also fairly priced, Margarita Lisboa is an ideal destination when you’re craving pizza and drinks in or near the Arroios neighborhood.
Weather permitting, sit outside when you eat and drink at Margarita Lisboa. The pizzeria’s sidewalk tables are prime for people watching.
Margarita Lisboa is located at Loja Margarita, Mercado de Arroios, Rua Ângela Pinto, 1900-067 Lisboa, Portugal.
Forno d’Oro lives up to its name with a sparkling, gilded, gold-tiled oven prominently displayed in the corner of the dining room.
The pizzeria sports an illustrious (yet, in our opinion overrated) Vera Pizza Napoletana certification which it proudly displays on its website and in the restaurant. Its extensive menu lists dozens of pizzas, some of which showcase Portuguese ingredients. This menu also includes pasta, meat and fish dishes.
Upon sitting down in Forno d’Oro’s formal dining room. we were repeatedly asked about our day as a if we were tourists who had just spent the day touring Belém. One server even expressed surprise that we had made our reservation with a Portuguese phone number.
Sensing our lack of enthusiasm or perhaps due to pizza insecurity, five different staff members later asked us if we loved our pizza. We’ll cut to the chase and say that we liked the two competent yet unremarkable pies we ordered from the menu’s ‘Italian Spirit’ section.
While Forno d’Oro is a quality pizza shop, it seems stuck in time warp where the mere idea of authentic Neapolitan pizza is a novelty in Lisbon. As proven above, it is not.
Be aware that starters like focaccia and bruschetta are not complimentary and carry an extra per person charge. Accepting a full array of starters could add a substantial amount to a bill for a party of four or more. If you don’t want to pay for these extras, just say “no thank you” or “não obrigado” when the server brings unordered starters to your table.
Forno d’Oro is located at Rua Artilharia 1 16b, 1250-039 Lisboa, Portugal.
Lisbon isn’t the only Portuguese city where pizza is popular. Food travelers in Portugal will have no problem scratching their pizza itch as they journey around the Iberian country. Let’s face it, most people eventually need a break from eating traditional Portuguese foods like arroz de pato, bacalhau à brás and cozido à portuguesa.
While we don’t recommend planning your Portugal itinerary around pizza, the following pizzeria justifies a special trip from Lisbon:
Most tourists take the short train ride to Sintra when they visit Lisbon. Though their main goal is to see Sintra’s famous castles, the savviest will venture just 10 kilometers further to eat pizza in Colares.
Originally serving its pizza from a van, Souldough currently operates in an open-air shack at Aldeia de Praia, a surfer-friendly compound in Colares. Despite this location, Souldough’s owners channel their Italian heritage by slowly fermenting dough for 36 hours and quickly baking pies in a giant yellow pizza oven.
We ate two excellent pies – a traditional Margarita pizza and a Mushroom Kingdom pizza with king oyster mushrooms, pesto oil and smoked mozzarella – during our day trip in Sintra.
It only hit us later that both pies were vegetarian. Needless to say, we didn’t miss the meat.
You can take a bus (#441 or 439), taxi or Uber to get to Souldough from Sintra. You can also take an antique tram during the summer months. As always, check current transit schedules in your quest to eat the best pizza in Portugal.
Souldough Pizza is located at Avenida Do Atlântico sn, 2705-288 Colares, Portugal.
Research Lisbon Hotels
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About the Authors
Daryl & Mindi Hirsch
Saveur Magazine’s BEST TRAVEL BLOG award winners Daryl and Mindi Hirsch share their culinary travel experiences and recipes on the 2foodtrippers website and YouTube. The married Food and Travel content creators live in Lisbon, Portugal.