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lyon food guide 2foodtrippers

Where to Eat in Lyon France – A Lyon Food Guide

In Food Travel Guides, France by Daryl & Mindi Hirsch9 Comments

We spent a month eating at some of the best restaurants in Lyon France so that we could assemble this Lyon food guide for hungry visitors and tourists. Enjoy!

Takao Takano - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

After a three-day visit to Lyon in 2012, we made a pledge that we would return to the charming city that stole our hearts. A few months ago, it was time to plan our second visit. We reserved an AirBnB apartment for a month and booked our flights. We were stoked!

Returning to Lyon was a dream that we finally had the opportunity to live out in real life. Sure, not everybody loves France’s third largest city. (We’re puzzled by our British friends who don’t understand our love for Lyon.) But, as food obsessives, we couldn’t contain our excitement about returning to the food capital of France.

Anyone who knows about food must surely understand. Lyon has a long and deep culinary heritage and is the launching pad for many great chefs including American chefs Daniel Boulud and George Perrier. It’s also the home of living culinary legend Paul Bocuse. Let’s just say that we were confident in our plans and giddy with excitement. We were ready to visit Lyon and partake in the best things to do in Lyon – eat French food and drink French wine.

Then, doubt started to creep in when we attended the New York Times Travel Show in January. At the event, we had the pleasure of meeting Ruth Reichl, the former editor of the now defunct Gourmet Magazine, respected author and all around culinarian. We had anticipated meeting Reichl during her book signing, sharing our plans and gathering some tips about the best places to eat in Lyon France. However, her feedback wasn’t what we wanted to hear.

“The food in Lyon is not very good,” Reichl said.Thankfully, we didn’t let Reichl’s flippant words derail our plan or dash our excitement for our trip to Lyon.

Thankfully, we didn’t let Reichl’s flippant words derail our plan or dash our excitement for our trip to Lyon.

What a difference a few years makes. Since our first visit, the food in Lyon has elevated to a new level of culinary excellence. Lyon always had a great base of food culture but needed time to catch up to current trends in the world dining scene.

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2foodtrippers Lyon Food Guide

Are you wondering where to eat in Lyon France? We spent a month eating some of the best Lyonnaise food while we lived like locals. Follow this guide and you are sure to eat well in Lyon just like us.

Restaurants

Yes, you can eat at the Michelin restaurants in Lyon, and those are surely special. But, for us, the real excitement in Lyon is at smaller restaurants where young chefs are making outstanding food at reasonable prices in an ultra-casual atmosphere.

Le Fooding, a movement that started in the early 2000’s, has taken hold all over France including Lyon. In short, Le Fooding involves highly trained chefs attempting to eliminate French restaurant pretense while still serving excellent food. The movement has had a positive effect on many of the best restaurants in Lyon, only improving on the city’s reputation for culinary excellence.

La Bijouterie

La Bijouterie - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

The trio of chefs at La Bijouterie are Arnaud Laverdin, Noé Saillard and Ryan Dolan. They work as a team cooking the tiny restaurant’s savory creations. It truly is all hands on deck, with Laverdin doing much of the serving in the restaurant.

A shining jewel in the exciting Lyon France food scene, La Bijouterie lives up to a name which literally translates to “jewelry”. We ate what might be the best lunch in Lyon at the ultra-casual restaurant just under the wire – it was literally our last restaurant meal in the city before we departed for Marseille. And what a meal it was. Lunch clocks in at just €15 for two dim sum plates, salad or soup plus sticky rice wrapped in a banana leaf. For lunch, the restaurant’s take on dim sum features melt in your mouth mushroom dumplings with a deep black bean and mushroom broth and Shrimp Har Gow served cheffy style in a pool of curry foam. Dinner at La Bijouterie is a much grander affair featuring dishes like barbecue pork shoulder with skate wings, spelt and chanterelle mushrooms.

Pro Tip: Be sure to make a reservation. The wait is a month for dinner, but it’s easier to score a lunch reservation with just a few day’s notice.

Le Bijouterie (€€) is located at 16 Rue Hippolyte Flandrin, 69001 Lyon. The restaurant is listed in the Le Fooding Guide.

Takao Takano

Whitefish Starter at Takao Takano - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

Each dish at Takao Takano is a revelation of culinary genius. Part of our tasting menu, this dish included whitefish from Lake Geneva, crayfish, mushrooms and salmon eggs swimming in a foamy broth.

We don’t know exactly why, but the French have a love affair with the Japanese and that mutual admiration manifests itself in both country’s cuisines. Nowhere is that more evident in Lyon than at Takao Takano. At this tiny oasis nestled in a residential neighborhood, Japanese-born chef Takano transports local, seasonal ingredients to a higher level by cooking dishes that excite with every bite. Our meal started with a shocking amuse bouche of mackerel that, on first glance. appeared to be soup but soon revealed itself to be a umami-filled panna cotta. And that was just the beginning of a meal packed with generously sized yet exquisitely composed dishes.

Pro Tip:  Order two different tasting menus so that you can taste a wider selection of dishes during the same meal at one of the top restaurants in Lyon France.

Takao Takano (€€) is located at 33 Rue Malesherbes, 69006 Lyon. The restaurant is listed in Le Fooding Guide and has been awarded one Michelin star.

PRaiRial

PRaiRial - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

Every dish at PRaiRial is a treat for the senses. Featured here are three courses from our lunch including Roasted Cauliflower with Cherimoya Sauce, Roast Chicken over Garlic Herb Foam and Chocolate with Sweet Clover Ice Cream, Meringue, Yuzu and Aired White Chocolate.

PRaiRial’s logo is uninhibited gastronomy. That may seem like a lofty statement, but Chef Gaétan Gentil delivers on this promise with food that combines the freshest seasonal ingredients with modern cooking techniques. The result is magical.

Pro Tip:  Be prepared to relax in PRaRial’s soothing environment. With only 28 seats and walls covered with greenery, the atmosphere is worthy of a leisurely meal of modern French gastronomy paired with wine.

PRaiRial (€€) is located at 11 Rue Chavanne, 69001 Lyon. The restaurant is listed in Le Fooding Guide and has been awarded one Michelin star.

Le Garet

Le Garet - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

Three courses from our Le Garet lunch included a traditional Lyonnaise Salad, Fish of the Day and Baba Rum.

Le Garet is the perfect spot for a traditional bouchon lunch in Lyon with its Lyonaisse comfort food and walls haphazardly filled with colorful caricatures. The crowd is mostly local and skews a bit older. The food may not be cutting edge, but it is completely satisfying and authentic to the city’s culinary history. Le Garet does not disappoint with its selection of traditional Lyon foods, proving that some of the best Lyon restaurants are bouchons.

Pro Tip:  Don’t skip the desserts, many of which are served with a shot of liquor. However, you may want to share one after such a big meal. Portions sizes are generous at Le Garet.

Le Garet (€€) is located at 7 Rue du Garet, 69001 Lyon. The restaurant has been awarded Michelin’s Bib Gourmand designation.

Daniel et Denise

Daniel et Denise - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

Daniel et Denise serves elevated bouchon fare like this Pâté with Foie Gras and Sweetbreads.

Daniel et Denise is a fancier bouchon that serves the kind of Lyonnnaise cuisine that made the city famous. We’re talking about classic Lyon dishes like Andouillette Lyonnaise and Tarte Tatin with Pralines. Friendly and a bit formal, the atmosphere is perfect for a romantic meal or a business lunch. Chef Josheph Viola now has three locations, but the food quality is still top-notch.

Pro Tip: Meals are served with two generous sides: pan-fried potatoes and macaroni gratin. Be careful not to load up on these carbs so that you save room for the cheese and dessert courses.

Daniel et Denise (€€) has three locations. We ate at the restaurant located at 156 Rue de Créqui, 69003 Lyon. The restaurant has been awarded Michelin’s Bib Gourmand designation.

Les Frangins

Captain Jack Hamburger at Les Frangins - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

This big and juicy burger is the Captain Jack. It’s made with beefsteak marinated in Jack Daniels, grilled bacon, roasted onions, house barbecue sauce and aged cheddar.

When we were doing our Lyon food planning and deciding what to eat in Lyon France, we never expected to eat hamburgers, much less twice in a month. However, we couldn’t help but notice a proliferation of hamburger shops in the city on the first day of our Lyon visit. After doing some research, we went to Les Frangins and ended up eating some of the best hamburgers of our lives. The top-quality ingredients are all locally sourced and cooked to perfection, and the burgers are served with unlimited frites (i.e. French Fries). On our second visit, Daryl tried the double burger that was almost as big as his head. Perfection on a bun.

Pro Tip:  Although Lyonnaise locals eat their burgers with a knife and fork, feel free to pick up the burger and chow down. That’s what we did.

Les Frangins (€) is located at 9 Rue des Marronniers, 69002 Lyon.

Carnet Gourmand

Sautéed Eggplant Salad at Carnet Gourmand - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

The Chinese food at Carnet Gourmand is as varied as it is colorful. Pictured here is the Sautéed Eggplant Salad.

With all of the great French food in Lyon, it would be easy to skip the ethnic options. But that would be a mistake. Lyon has a variety of interesting restaurants serving ethnicities like Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai, Lebanese and more. For us, it’s always fun to see how different cities put their own twist on ethnic food. Our meal at Carnet Gourmet gave us traditional Chinese food but with local twists like excellent knife work and pretty plating.

Pro Tip:  Check out the photos when you view the menu. With a menu featuring foods from various Chinese provinces, the photos are quite helpful especially if French isn’t your first language.

Carnet Gourmand (€) is located at 15 Rue Neuve, 69001 Lyon.

Paul Bocuse

Paul Bocuse - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

The building that houses Paul Bocuse is a shrine to the three star Michelin restaurant’s famed chef and namesake. It’s worth a visit even if you don’t have the budget or appetite for an epic meal here.

True confession: we haven’t actually eaten at Paul Bocuse, at least not yet. Our budget could only afford one three star Michelin meal, and we chose to do that at Maison Bras in Laguiole. However, we did visit the palace of fine Lyon cuisine and took a peek inside. Awarded the coveted Michelin star trifecta in 1965, the famous Lyon restaurant is a site to be seen in all of its opulent glory. One day we’ll taste the famous chef’s signature dishes of black truffle soup and Bresse chicken cooked in a bladder à la Mère Filliou. Until then, at least we got a preview of good things yet to come.

Pro Tip:  Even if you don’t dine at the famous Paul Bocuse restaurant, it’s still worth a visit to the best restaurant in Lyon France to check out the colorfully decorated building and wall murals. See how many chefs you can recognize in the murals beyond Julia Child.

Paul Bocuse (€€€) is located at 40 Rue de la Plage, 69660 Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or. The restaurant has been awarded three Michelin stars.

To-Go Shops

As great as the restaurants are in Lyon, sometimes the best meal is the one you eat at home with your shoes off and a glass of wine in hand. Assuming you’ve taken our advice on getting an Airbnb apartment, here are the shops where you should start your exploration of the local foods you must eat in Lyon.

Fromagerie Tête d’Or

Cheese at Froomagerie Tête d'Or - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

Visiting Fromagerie Tête d’Or is like taking a cheese tour France but in a well-curated shop.

Lyon is a city swimming in cheese shops, but Didier Lassagne’s shop in the Tête d’Or neighborhood is special enough to warrant a walk across town. We first discovered the shop when we were dining at PRaiRial and saw it listed on the menu as the restaurant’s cheese provider. At Tête d’Or, the cheeses are lined up in neat little rows featuring the finest chèvres in many varieties as well as others like stinky Alsatian Munster and a sweet Beaufort that lingers on your tongue for a good half hour. Each cheese is perfectly ripened and ready to be enjoyed, preferably with a bottle of wine.

Pro Tip:  While you’re at the shop buying cheese, be sure to pick up some other gourmet goodies. We especially like the yogurts flavored with peach, apricot, strawberry, raspberry and cassis. The yogurt is currently priced at one euro each.

Fromagerie Tête d’Or (€) is located at51 Rue Tete d’Or 69006 Lyon.

C. Reynon Traiteur

Reynon - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

We first heard about Reynon by watching Anthony Bourdain on CNN. It was a solid recommendation and one that we are happy to pass on to our readers.

Serving specialty foods since 1937, Reynon is a haven for Lyon food lovers, be they locals or visitors. Famously visited by TV personality Anthony Bourdain, Reynon is decorated with sausages hanging from the ceiling and along the walls. The shop sells a lot more than sausage – prepared salads, fresh meat, Bresse chickens, gourmet foods and more. If you’re brave enough, the shop has large slabs of tongue which they will slice to order.

Pro Tip:  Do not miss the fresh sausage with pistachios and morels. The preparation is quite simple – just cook in simmering water for 40 minutes. Trust us, this sausage is divine.

C. Reynon Traiteur (€ – €€) is located at 13 Rue des Archers, 69002 Lyon.

Le Comptoir du Poulet

Comptoir du Poulet - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

When you need a break from baguettes and cheese (yes, that can happen!) and you want a quick meal at home, the roasted chicken at Comptoir du Poulet is the perfect choice.

Le Comptoir du Poulet is proof of two things – (1) fast food doesn’t have to be unhealthy and (2) eating in Lyon France doesn’t have to be expensive. This shop sells roasted artisan chickens with meat that literally falls off of the bone. Served with a side of roasted potatoes, Le Comptoir du Poulet’s farm-raised chicken from Ardèche is an easy yet satisfying meal after a day of work or touring. The shop sells sandwiches and other sides as well.

Pro Tip:  With a day’s notice, Le Comptoir du Polet will roast a Bresse chicken for you.

Le Comptoir du Poulet (€) is located at 14 rue Constantine 69001 Lyon.

Le Pain d’Hippolyte

Le Pain d'Hippolyte Boulangerie - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

The baguettes at boulangerie Le Pain d’Hippolyte won the unofficial 2foodtrippers taste test. Crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, these baguettes are the perfect vehicles for cheese, meat and more.

Wherever you are in Lyon, you’re never far away from a boulangerie. This makes sense since most Lyonaisse natives buy fresh baguettes on a daily basis. And for a euro (give or take), why not?! While the city’s baguettes are all good, some are great, and some are even excellent. We tasted baguettes at several boulangeries, and the bread at Hippolyte is our favorite. Their pastries, especially the eclairs, are quite tasty, making the shop a convenient stop for your bread and dessert needs. Plus, Hippolyte is centrally located and has pleasant service throughout the day.

Cheap Eats Lyon Alert:  In addition to solid baguettes and pastries, the shop also sells excellent sandwiches at reasonable prices, making Le Pain d’Hippolyte the perfect spot for a lunch that costs under €5.

Pain d’Hippolyte (€) is located at 15 Rue Hippolyte Flandrin, 69001 Lyon.

Giraudet

Giraudet - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

Why kill yourself cooking quenelles when you can buy the fresh dumplings at Giraudet? Bottles of soup and sauces are also available for purchase.

Quenelles are normally associated with the best bouchons in Lyon, but you can also get them at Giraudet, a local institution since 1910. In addition to quenelles, the shop sells a variety of fresh soups and sauces that can be heated up at home for a quick, satisfying meal.

Pro Tip:  If you don’t feel like eating at home, the shop is coupled with a restaurant serving the same items plus a bit more.

Giraudet (€) has several locations including a stall at t Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse.

Maison Kayser

Maison Kayser - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

In addition to selling baguettes and baked goods, Maison Kayser also sells sandwiches (like this tuna sandwich) and salads.

We fell in love with Maison Kayser in New York. As it turns out, the Parisian boulangerie also has three locations in Lyon, including one adjacent to the city’s opera house. The shop has a wide selection of many of our favorite food of Lyon like bread, pastries, sandwiches and salads. Open later than most neighborhood boulangeries, Maison Kayser is a good last stop of the day.

Pro Tip:  Prices are lower at the Lyon locations compared to New York, so feel free to buy extra breads and treats to enjoy later or in the morning.

Maison Kayser (€) has three locations in Lyon. We frequented the one at 15 Place Louis Pradel, 69001 Lyon.

Markets

Every French city has a market, if not several. Lyon is no exception to this rule. The Lyon food markets are excellent spots to purchase some of the best food in Lyon France for the day or week. They’re also perfect spots to eat Lyon food specialties, people watch and take photos.

Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse

Les Halles de Lyon - Paul Bocuse - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

Centrally located in the heart of Lyon and not far from the Part Dieu train station, Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse is the ultimate indoor market with a dizzying array of foods fit for a king.

Sometimes called the belly of Lyon but usually just called Les Halles, this indoor Lyon market is a gem smack dab in the middle of the city. The 60 quality vendors sell a variety of items like fish, meat, cheese, desserts and so much more. You want fresh oysters? Check. A Bresse chicken? Check. A shiny red praline tart? Check, check, check.

Pro Tip:  As if the wonderful food isn’t enough, Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse also has several restaurants and wine bars where you can enjoy lunch or dinner by yourself or with friends.

Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse is located at 102 Cours Lafayette, 69003 Lyon.

Outdoor Markets

Outdoor Markets - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

The outdoor markets in Lyon are perfect for everyday purchases like fruit, vegetables and eggs.

As great as Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse may be, sometimes a shopper just wants to visit a neighborhood market to buy a few items for the day. This is where Lyon’s outdoor markets come into play. Instead of having set stalls, these markets are serviced by a roster of rotating vendors who sell the best things to eat in Lyon – fruits, vegetables, eggs, saucisson, cheese, wine and more. Our favorites outdoor markets are Marché Saint-Antoine and Marché Croix Rousse.

Pro Tip: Try to shop early in the morning for the best selection of the day.

Marché Saint-Antoine is located at Quai Saint-Antoine, 69002 Lyon.
Marché Croix Rousse is located at Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse 69001 Lyon.

Third Wave Coffee Shops

Traditional French cafés are wonderful, but there’s nothing like a third wave coffee shop to satisfy your thirst for great coffee while also providing a space to work and mingle. These modern coffee shops are sprouting up all over Lyon, making visits to Starbucks unnecessary.

Slake - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

Lyon is hopping with third wave coffee shops like Slake pictured here. These shops are the perfect spot to get a great coffee and do some work. They are also social hubs for both locals and visitors.

Spending a month in Lyon gave us enough time to scout out a handful of third wave coffee shops. Though we frequented Puzzle Cafe the most due to its proximity to our apartment as well as its good coffee/vibe combination, we also recommend Slake Coffee House, MaMi Coffee Shop and La Bicyletterie.

Tasting Tip:  Don’t be afraid to order dessert at any of Lyon’s third wave coffee shops. Most of the sweet treats are sourced at Piece of Cake – see below.

Puzzle Cafe (€) is located at 4 Rue de la Poulaillerie, 69002 Lyon.
Slake Coffee House (€) is located at 9 Rue de l’Ancienne Préfecture, 69002 Lyon.
MaMi Coffee Shop (€) is located at 141 Rue Sébastien Gryphe, 69007 Lyon.
La Bicycletterie (€) is located at 16 Rue Romarin, 69001 Lyon.

Dessert

Fabulous desserts are easy to eat in Lyon because pastries are sold everywhere and usually for a reasonable price. The most convenient place to buy them is the neighborhood boulangerie or market. However, it’s hard to say “no” to a dessert at the end of a restaurant meal too. That being said, the following Lyon dessert spots warrant a special visit.

Le Kitchen Cafe

Le Kitchen Cafe - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

This flavor bomb is called Banofee Pie Our Way and is made with banana milk jam ice cream, milk mousse and muscovado cookies.

Despite the plethora of dessert options in Lyon, Le Kitchen Cafe is the first dessert bar in the city, with options ranging from cookies to fancy creations. Pastry Chef Laurent Ozan prepares the sweet creations, complementing the savory dishes prepared by his partner, Chef Connie Zagora. This cosy neighborhood cafe is the perfect spot for breakfast or lunch in addition to dessert.

Tasting Tip:  Satisfy your thirst with a variety of beverage options like homemade iced tea, juice, beer, wine and coffee.

Le Kitchen Cafe (€ – €€) is located at 34 Rue Chevreul, 69007 Lyon. The restaurant is listed in Le Fooding Guide and has been awarded Michelin’s Bib Gourmand designation.

Piece of Cake

Pastry Chef Anne Chambouleyron - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

Pastry Chef Anne Chambouleyron learned about American style cheesecake from her American relatives. She now bakes this cheesecake plus other desserts for coffee shops and restaurants throughout Lyon.

In Lyon, desserts must be prepared by a trained pastry chef, not just by some Tom, Dick or Harriet with a mixing bowl and sugar. That’s where Piece of Cake comes in to play. Helmed by Pastry Chef Anne Chambouleyron, Piece of Cake provides desserts to many of the city’s third wave coffee shops and other restaurants. These desserts include American cheesecake (yes – made with Philadelphia brand cream cheese), carrot cake, blondies and more.

Pro Tip:  Go to Piece of Cake on Saturday for a full selection of Chambouleyron’s desserts. This is the only day that the shop is open to the public.

Piece of Cake (€) is located at 8 Rue Aguesseau, 69007 Lyon.

Sève

Sève - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

The desserts at Sève are true works of art.

When you walk into the north entrance to Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse, you can’t miss the colorful pastries at Sève. A closer look reveals macarons, both sweet and savory. And chocolate. Lots of chocolate.

Pro Tip:  Don’t waste time shopping for gifts and souvenirs when you’re visiting Lyon. Sève has an assortment of boxed chocolates that will not disappoint the pickiest of candy connoisseurs.

Sève (€ – €€) has seven locations in Lyon including one at Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse.

Voisin

Voisin - Where to Eat in Lyon France - A Lyon Food Guide

Voisin captures the spirt of Lyon with its colorful desserts sold throughout the city.

It’s almost impossible to walk around Lyon without bumping into a Voisin shop. This is a good thing since Voisin sells a variety of colorful candies and chocolates that easily satisfy a hungry traveler in need of a quick jolt of sweet energy. Founded in 1897, Voisin is a respected choclatier in this food-focused city.

Tasting Tip:  Be sure to try a Coussin de Lyon, the local treat invented by Voisin. What is a Coussin de Lyon? It’s a piece of pale green marzipan filled with chocolate gananche.

Voisin (€) has 13 locations in Lyon including one at Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse.


Hungry for more French food? Check out our Strasbourg Food Guide.


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Comments

  1. Amazing post! I loved Lyon so much but our eating was somewhat restricted as we had our kids in tow. Next time it will need to be a date trip with these tips on hand. Love the sound of PRaiRial and Takao Takano. Thank you

  2. J’adore Lyon and I can’t wait to come back! So awesome that you spent an entire month there! We dined at La Mere Brazier and it was just phenomenal.

    1. Author

      We’re hoping to be back in Lyon later this year, and La Mere Brazier is on our list of restaurants to check out. Glad to hear you loved it there.

  3. Great guide! I’m happy to see a lot of my Lyon favorites and a few I haven’t heard of before. Le Pain d’Hippolyte was my neighborhood boulangerie, I love their boules of bread. (Can’t say I’m a big fan of the Eric Kayser in Lyon, although it is certainly conveniently located. I did love going there in Paris, though!) I’ve heard nothing but raves about La Bijouterie ever since it opened (is it true that it’s the most Instagrammable restaurant in Lyon?) I’m delighted to see La Bicycletterie and Puzzle on here! If you go back you must also try Nuage Cafe and Le Tigre. I ate at Paul Bocuse once, and it was certainly an experience. I wanted to take pictures of everything and I could just feel people judging me.

    Anyway, I am glad you enjoyed your time in Lyon – thank you for writing this awesome guide!

    1. Author

      Nuage and Le Tigre sound like places that we’ll definitely have to check out next time we visit Lyon. Living long term in France I bet you become spoiled by the excellent day to day quality of French loaves. In the U.S. baguettes from Kayser would be the best available and in Paris they’re still venerated by many people but once we settled into the Lyon we learned to appreciate the fine and unique distinctions of local artisan bread and Hippolyte fit the bill. We still bought baguettes from Kayser on Mondays since they’re the only bakery that’s open. It makes sense that La Bijouterie is the most instagrammed – the light in the room is great and the chef over there, unlike many of the French people, loves the attention and loves to be photographed. Having a limited Michelin *** splurge budget, we decided to drive to the country and dine at Maison Bras instead of Paul Bocuse. We don’t regret our decision one bit – traveling to Aveyron was a singular dining experience and Bocuse’s food looked super heavy (though we do appreciate his classic approach.) Thank you so much and we’re glad you enjoyed it. We loved Lyon and hope to be back some day.

  4. we are going on a River cruise at the beginning of Sept / Going a day early and staying in Lyon and at the end staying in Marseille. Can you recommend restaurants where locals eat ?

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