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Tallinn Food Guide - Cafe Boheem Dumplings

Where to Eat in Tallinn Estonia – The Best Tallinn Restaurants, Cafes and Bars

In Estonia, Food Travel Guides by Daryl & Mindi Hirsch8 Comments

We spent a week eating our way through the Estonian capital to create this Tallinn Food Guide with some of the best Tallinn restaurants, cafes, coffee shops and bars.
Kubliaka at Cafe Moon - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

Stifled for many years while part of the former Soviet Union, Tallinn Estonia, which liberated itself from the grip of communism over a quarter century ago, is evolving at a rapid pace. Bearded hipsters roam the streets of trendy Kalamaja while curious tourists amble along the cobblestone alleys in Old Town. Though these two worlds happily coexist, many tourists never leave the medieval Old Town and may not even realize that there’s more to discover beyond the ancient walls. We’re talking about cutting-edge street art, cool cafes and lightning fast internet. There are so many reasons why Tallinn is popular. But what about the food?

If you’re reading this Tallinn guide, you may be stopping in Tallinn during a Nordic river cruise. Or perhaps you took the ferry from nearby Helsinki to visit Tallinn for a day trip. Regardless of how you plan to spend your Tallinn holiday, you may not even consider Tallinn to be a food travel destination. We get it. We didn’t expect much from the food in Tallinn before we arrived for a week-long visit. However, we were delighted to find an exciting food scene with third wave coffee and excellent craft beer. And, as a bonus, food and drink prices in Tallinn are low when compared to those of their Nordic neighbors.

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2foodtrippers Tallinn Food Guide

During our week-long quest to find the best drinks and food in Tallinn Estonia, we checked out a variety of restaurants, cafes, coffee shops and bars. If you’re wondering where and what to eat in Tallinn, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the varied options that go beyond traditional Estonia cuisine. We share our favorites and some of the best restaurants in Tallinn here. You won’t go hungry whether you have 24 hours in Tallinn or a week or even longer!

Restaurants

Cafe Moon Buckwheat Blini with White Fish Roe - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

We loved assembling buckwheat blinis with white fish roe, red onion and sour cream at Cafe Moon. This dish is a modern take on a Russian classic.

Tallinn cuisine is rapidly evolving. Like the city itself, the Tallinn restaurant scene is also growing fast. Young chefs are pushing the culinary envelope throughout the city, both in touristy Old Town and beyond. Yes, Russian cuisine is still part of the landscape, but we also found global influences from the other countries that have occupied Estonia over the years – Denmark, Finland, Germany and Sweden. These countries have influenced the food in Estonia, but they don’t define it – eating in Tallinn is its own experience and shouldn’t be missed.

Cafe Moon

Chef Roman Zaštšerinski at Cafe Moon - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

Chef Roman Zaštšerinski helms Cafe Moon – a local eatery that may be the best restaurant in Tallinn Estonia.

We were over the moon as we ate at this outstanding Tallinn restaurant that actually translates to Poppy Cafe. And why not? Chef Roman Zaštšerinski pulls out all the stops with his simple yet complex Russian cuisine made with fresh, locally procured Estonian ingredients. He opened the casual, stylish restaurant with his cousin Igor Andrejev (also a chef) and his wife Jana Zaštšerinski (the sommelier and business manager) in 2010. Fast forward to the present and this power team is still serving breathtaking food that honors the past while being thoroughly modern at the same time.

Chicken Kiev at Cafe Moon - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

The Cafe Moon version of Chicken Kiev has little resemblance to the versions that we ate growing up in America.

We can’t pick a favorite dish from our meal at Cafe Moon. On one hand, we loved our starter with salted wild mushrooms, sour cream, breadcrumbs and shallots, but we equally loved the shuba (fur coats) with smoked eel braised in apple wine and beetroot. But wait, we also loved the buckwheat blinis with whitefish roe and the kubliaka (filo dough with fish inside). For us, though, the most memorable course was the chicken kiev, a dish which some of you may remember from an episode of Mad Men where Don Draper wears a bib to prevent the exploding buttery center from staining his suit. This version featured an oozing herbaceous green center that did not stain our shirts. Then again, maybe our favorite was the deconstructed Russian Napoleon cake with its caramelized condensed milk cream, lingonberry ice cream and foam.

Though the restaurant offers wonderful wine and craft beer options, be sure to try unique options like the sea buckthorn mulled wine and the housemade black chokeberry schnapps. Or, keeping with the Russian theme, just drink vodka. They have that too.

Pro Tip:  Stop by the restaurant to make a reservation if one is not available online. The restaurant saves a few spots for locals and may be able to squeeze you in.

Cafe Moon is located at Võrgu 3, 10415 Tallinn, Estonia.

Rataskaevu 16

We knew we were in for a treat at Rataskaevu 16 as soon as the house-made pumpkin bread arrived at our table. Cooked just two hours before our meal and accompanied by seasoned Estonian butter and “welcome treats”, this bread was indicative of the popular restaurant’s food – simple, hearty and filled with local ingredients.

 Beet Soup with Elk Meat, Red Lentils and Sundried Cherry Tomatoes at Rataskaevu 16 - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

We love our meal at Rataskaevu 16. A highlight was the beet soup with elk meat, red lentils and sundried cherry tomatoes.

As we cozied up in our window table with a view of Tallinn Old Town, we let our eager server guide us through to the best dishes on the Rataskaevu 16 menu. We started our dinner with a dish of fried Baltic herring fillets with pearl onions, fresh salad roasted breadcrumbs and cottage cheese sauce. This dish was more than traditional Estonian food – this was Estonian fine dining. Our bowl of beet soup with elk meat, red lentils and sundried cherry tomatoes did the same, and we scraped every last spoonful from the bowl. We also shared braised elk roast served with celery puree, beetroot, carrot and black currant soup before we finished the meal with bread pudding served next to raspberry parfait and caramel sauce.

Bread Pudding at Ratakaevu 16 - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

We couldn’t resist sharing this bread pudding dessert served with raspberry parfait and caramel sauce.

Located in an allegedly haunted 15th-century building, Rataskaevu 16 has a comprehensive bar that includes our favorite local beer, Põhjala Porter. Despite our meaty meal, the menu features Estonian dishes for vegetarians too.

Pro Tip: Make an advance reservation since popular Rataskaevu 16 is one of the best places to eat in Tallinn.

Ratakaevu 16 is located at Rataskaevu 16, 10123 Tallinn, Estonia.

Leib Resto ja Aed

 Leib Resto - Jerusalem Artichoke Garlic Soup - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

The menu at Leib Resto focuses on ingredients that are both local and seasonal. We especially enjoyed this bowl of creamy Jerusalem artichoke-garlic soup.

Did we mention that we love bread? Since Leib translates to black bread in Estonian, we felt right at home in this classy yet casual restaurant that celebrates seasonal food made with hyper-local ingredients. We enjoyed the homemade black bread served with herb-topped butter, but Leib Resto is more than just its namesake food item. We savored the beef tartare with mayo and marinated radish as well as the gravad perch with crispy black bread and horseradish cream; however, our favorite dish was the creamy Jerusalem artichoke-garlic soup with crisps. There’s some good cooking going on here as shown by the crisp crumbs which provided a crunchy counterpoint to the creamy soup and fresh flavored, thin yet firm Jerusalem artichoke slices.

Leib’s tagline is soulful casual dining. If it were up to us, we’d add creative, local and seasonal to this description.

Pro Tip:  If weather permits, dine in the outdoor garden at Leib Resto ja Aed. Since it was winter, we ate our meal inside where we enjoyed the restaurant’s warm, comforting, stately quarters.

Leib Resto ja Aed is located at Uus 31, 10111 Tallinn, Estonia.

Restaurant Mekk

 Restaurant Mekk - Beef Cheek - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

Resturant Mekk specializes in modern food of Estonia like this slow cooked beef cheek dish served with pickled pumpkin, celery foam, potatoes, carrots and kale.

With a name that translates to modern Estonian cuisine, Restaurant MEKK in the Savoy Boutique Hotel hotel is a great spot for a fancy meal that celebrates local ingredients and traditional techniques. Chef Rene Uusmees pulled out all the stops for our meal with his beef cheek dish served with pickled pumpkin, celery foam, potatoes, carrots and kale. Marinated and slow cooked for eight hours, this traditional dish literally melted in our mouths. We then ended our lunch at one of the best restaurants in Old Town Tallinn by sharing caramelized almond cake with dried cranberries and ice cream.

Pro Tip: Don’t skip Mekk’s house-made Estonian black bread, a great take on the carb-friendly classic.

Restaurant MEKK is located at Suur-Karja 17, 10140 Tallinn, Estonia.

Additional Restaurants in Tallinn Estonia

Let’s face it – a week is not enough to eat at all of the top restaurants in Tallinn. When (not if) we return, we will be sure to dine at the following recommended Tallinn top restaurants:

Cafes

 Boheem Cafe - Mushroom Crepe - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

We enjoyed this mushroom crepe at Boheem Cafe in Tallinn.

Just like we found in nearby Helsinki, the Tallinn cafe culture is everywhere. Considering that the city’s oldest cafe  (see Cafe Maiasmokk below) dates back to 1854, this cafe culture is long and deep. With one common thread being the availability of coffee, the cafes in Tallinn all have different vibes and food offerings. The following get our votes for the best Tallinn cafes.

F-Hoone

“Go to F-Hoone.” That was the one tip that everybody told us as we planned our trip to Tallinn. After we heard this advice from Susan, our foodie friend based in Stockholm, a visit to F-Hoone became a given. Did we like F-Hoone? Let’s just say we liked it enough to return and film a YouTube video here.

F-Hoone - Borscht and Black Bread - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

Borscht and Black Rye Bread

There’s no way around it, F-Hoone is a hip cafe with hip food and hip people. Located in a 100-year building that’s now part of the trendy Telliskivi complex, F-Hoone is a meeting place for locals (and a few tourists) who want to relax with reasonably priced food, coffee or adult beverages. Though we didn’t drink any alcohol at this industrially chic eatery, we can attest to the quality of the cappuccinos and the food. We especially liked the buckwheat blinis with trout caviar, red onion and horseradish cream as well as the borscht served with black rye bread, salted pork fat and garlic. And then there’s the Furger.

 F-Hoone - Furger - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

This is no burger – it’s a furger, F-Hoone’s twist on the hamburger.

While the deep red borscht brought back memories of our grandmothers’ Polish cooking, the “Furger” validated that hamburgers are no longer unique to America. We don’t why it’s they spell burger with an an F instead of a B, but if anyone has any idea – please let us know. As we discovered in Dublin, LyonStrasbourg and now Tallinn, it is possible to find good burgers outside of the US.

Pro Tip:  Plan to spend some time walking around Telliskivi. The neighborhood is super cool and highly walkable, especially in the warmer months.

F-Hoone is located at Telliskivi 60, 10412 Tallinn, Estonia.

Boheem Cafe

 Dumplings at Boheem Cafe - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

Dumplings at Boheem Cafe

Situated just around the corner from F-Hoone, Boheem Cafe is a cute spot serving up Estonian comfort food in a cozy setting. This is a great spot to go for brunch after a night on the town, or at least that’s what we did. For our meal, we shared a mushroom crepe and some dumplings. We also enjoyed a piece of strawberry cheesecake too. Shh! Don’t tell anyone, but it was worth every calorie!

Pro Tip:  Pop next door to Boheem Pizzeria if you’re more in the mood for pizza. And who isn’t in the mood for pizza?

Boheem Cafe is located at Kopli 18, 10412 Tallinn, Estonia.

Levier Cakery

 Macaron at Levier Cakery - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

We ate this macaron at Levier Cakery, a tiny cafe in Kalamaja.

We passed Levier Cakery while walking around the Kalamaja neighborhood and couldn’t resist stopping in after we saw the rainbow of macarons through the expansive picture windows. Once inside the tiny cafe, we were tempted by the variety of pastries but went with our initial temptation – the macarons. We have no regrets. It turns out that the cakery’s macarons are handmade with natural ingredients and fresh fruits. As a bonus, for those who care, Levier Cakery’s macarons are lactose and gluten-free.

Pro Tip:  Though the flavors are big, the space at Levier Cakery is small. Be prepared to take away your macarons if a table isn’t available.

Levier Cakery is located at Vana-Kalamaja 21, 10414 Tallinn, Estonia.

Kompressor

True confession – we didn’t eat at Kompressor. We really wanted to try the Old Town cafe famous for its cheap, jumbo pancakes, but it was closed every time we tried to eat there due to the holiday season. Not that we need it, but this omission gives us yet another reason to plan a return visit to Tallinn.

Kompressor is located at Rataskaevu 3, 10123 Tallinn, Estonia.

Coffee Shops

Third Wave Coffee - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

Third wave coffee has arrived in Tallinn.

Dating back to the late 19th century, Tallin’s coffee history stalled during the Communist years but is back full force today. As we explored the city, we discovered cutting third wave coffee shops as well as traditional coffee houses. In other words, there’s no excuse to be under-caffeinated in Tallin. Here are our favorite coffee shops.

Renard Coffee Shop

Coffee at Renard Coffee Shop - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

Customers can buy coffee and motorcycles at Renard Coffee Shop. We chose to buy coffee.

Located in the Telliskivi near F-Hoone, Renard Coffee won the award for being our favorite Tallinn coffee spot. Too cool for school with an in-house motorcycle shop, the vibe was surprisingly comfortable with electrical outlets for those who needed to charge their electronics. With just a few food options, the main attraction was the coffee. Renard sourced the best beans in Europe and prepared them to order either as filtered coffee or espresso drinks.

Renard Coffee Shop was located at Telliskivi 62, 10412 Tallinn, Estonia. Permanently closed at this location, the coffee shop now operates on a pop-up basis.

Cafe Maiasmokk

Cafe Maiasmokk - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

View from Inside Cafe Maiasmokk

Cafe Maiasmokk is the perfect spot to take a break during a day of Old Town Tallinn sightseeing. Not only is the cafe located in the middle of the historic area, but it has its own history dating back to its opening in 1864. Since Maiasmokk translates to Sweet Tooth, it’s no surprise that the Maiasmokk offers a full selection of desserts to go with a full coffee and hot chocolate menu.

Pro Tip:  Be sure to check out the Marzipan Museum Room located in the same building as Cafe Maiasmokk. 

Cafe Maiasmokk is located at Pikk 16, 10123 Tallinn, Estonia.

Additional Coffee Shops

Tallinn has a number of quality of good coffee shops – with more opening all the time. Here are some more Tallinn coffee shops to check out.

Bars

Restaurant Mekk Cocktail - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

Warming Cocktail at Restaurant Mekk

Whether you want to sip on local liqueur Vana Tallinn or another libation, there are many Tallinn bars where you can whet your whistle. Plus, compared to nearby Helsinki, the Estonian beer prices are favorable. Here are our favorites.

Must Puudel

 Põhjala Beer at Must Puudel - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

We drank this Põhjala porter at Must Puudel in the heart of Old Town Tallinn.

We stopped by Must Puudel on our first night in Tallinn for a light bite and beer. Though the food wasn’t memorable, we have fond memories of drinking our first (but not last) Põhjala beer at this popular cafe. In addition to its food and drink menu, Must Puudel has a cool vibe with a retro Soviet kitsch design.

Must Puudel is located at Müürivahe 20, 10140 Tallinn, Estonia.

Pro Tip:  Skip the food at Must Puudel and instead drink local craft beer and cider.

Speakeasy by Põhjala

 Põhjala Beer Bottles - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

Selection of Põhjala Beer

If you’re looking for a fancy nightclub, Speakeasy is not your spot. However, if you’re looking to drink a selection of Tallinn’s best beer, then Speakeasy is for you. This simple bar is all about the brews. Sure, you could order another beer, but why not order a fresh pint of Põhjala beer brewed just outside of Tallinn.

Pro Tip:  Order a Põhjala Porter. You won’t be sorry.

Speakeasy by Põhjala is located at Kopli 4, 10412 Tallinn, Estonia.

Depeche Mode Baar

 Depeche Mode Baar - Where to Eat in Tallinn - A Tallinn Food Guide

We didn’t expect to find a Depeche Mode tribute bar in Tallinn. Of course, we had to check it out.

If you spent any of your formative years in the 1980’s or if you enjoy the music of that decade, then a stop at Depeche Mode Baar is mandatory when you visit Tallinn. Although Depeche Mode hails from England, this Tallinn bar operates as a tribute to the British band. Drink options include special cocktails named after Depeche Mode songs, but the bar snacks are quite basic. If you’re like us, you “Just Can’t Get Enough” of this quirky bar/shrine. Who knows? It may even become your “Personal Jesus”.

Pro Tip: Be prepared for a musical blast to the past. Not surprisingly, all the songs on the jukebox are by Depeche Mode.

Depeche Mode Baar is located at Nunne 4, 10133 Tallinn, Estonia.

Eating Tallin Video

Watch our video for more inside scoop about the Estonia food scene. In the video, we dish about Tallinn while we eat bellinis and borscht at F-Hoone.

Subscribe to our YouTube channel for more meals and conversation with the 2foodtrippers.


Hungry for more? Check out our Helsinki Food Guide. The capital of Finland is just a short ferry ride from Tallinn.


Research Tallinn Hotels

We stayed at two different hotels in Tallinn and recommend both. Check them out and then make a reservation with the included affiliate links.

  • Solos Sokos Hotel Estoria – See the latest reviews and find the best rates:  Trip Advisor  |  Booking.Com
  • Park Inn by Radisson Meriton Tallinn – See the latest reviews and find the best rates:  Trip Advisor  |  Booking.Com

Getting to Tallinn

The easiest way to arrive in Tallinn is by ferry. We took the Tallink Superstar ferry from Helsinki and found the two-hour ride to be both comfortable and fast. Click here to book a Tallink ferry ticket between Helsinki and Tallinn.

Book a Tour

There’s more to do in Tallinn beyond eating great food. Click here to find an awesome Tallinn tour or try one of these tours:

Buy a Travel Guide

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We thank Visit Tallinn and their partners (especially Solos Sokos Hotel Estoria and Park Inn by Radisson Meriton Tallinn) for supporting our Tallinn holiday. We also thank Tallink Silja for sponsoring our ferry ride to Tallinn.

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Comments

  1. I have never ben to Tallinn before but it sounds incredible! The food looks fantastic too and your photos have really captured that essence of foodporn!

  2. I have also never visited Estonia, but it sounds (and looks) like Tallinn is quite a surprisingly interesting food destination. The macaron and all the other meals look delicious!

  3. Oh how lovely. We spent a long weekend in Tallinn many years ago, gosh, just counted and it was 15 years now! We loved it, such a beautiful and warm city and of course a jewel of an old town. We did eat really well, but back then I would say that modern European cuisine had really only just started to make an inroad, most of the restaurants were fairly traditional, still very good. I’m loving all your recommendations, they look fantastic. Making me want to plan a revisit asap!

    1. Author

      With the plethora of discount airlines flying out of London, you should definitely plan a return visit to Tallinn!

  4. Ah the bearded hipsters Daryl and Mindi; always a sign things are on the up and up with the cuisine scene LOL. We are house sitting in East Harlem on Friday; yes, a brewery with bearded white guys miraculously popped up over the past year. Area has been changing as is but this spot and it’s 9 dollar beers are more signs of a transition of Kafka-esque proportions 😉 Thanks for the tasty share!

    Ryan

  5. So glad to hear Depeche Mode Baar is still there. A huge DM fan, I visited back in 2001. The part where they only played DM songs (and some similar music in between) was cool, but I was a little disappointed at how empty the place was.

  6. Tallinn was a shocking – in the best way – culinary discovery for me as well. I didnt expect to have such a great mix of new and traditional, both taken to the next level. I traveled to Estonia after some time in Latvia/Riga, and while the food was good, it wasnt particularly anything to quite literally write about. So I expected to eat well enough – but was actually floored by how serious and impressive the food scene was.

  7. Hey Daryl & Mindi! thanks so much for this food guide! We’re heading to Tallinn for the first time this June and it will be during Bevan’s birthday so hoping to find a fab restaurant for his birthday. Plus we’re massive coffee snobs! Cheers for all the info! 🙂

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