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15 Things To Do In Graz For Food Travelers

Clock Tower in Graz
Image: ©2foodtrippers

Graz is Austria’s second most populous city and the capital of the Styria region – the country’s southern farm belt at the Eastern foot of the Austrian Alps. It’s an impressive city with two different UNESCO designations – it’s both a UNESCO City of Design and a UNESCO World Heritage Center.

Fun fact
Arnold Schwarzenegger hails from Thal, just a 21 minute drive from Graz. You can visit the Arnold Schwarzenegger Museum while there. You can even check out the pull up bar that Arnold used to exercise next to Thalersee, a nearby lake.

Arnold attractions aside and most important to us as food travelers, Graz is Austria’s Culinary City of Delights. That moniker alone was enough to motivate us to spend a week in Graz peeling the city’s culinary layers. Traveling slowly, without rushing from meal to meal, seemed imperative in a city so focused on cuisine.

Carrots and Seaweed at Geruchtekuche in Graz
Carrots and seaweed found harmony on this plate at Geruchtekuche, a creative Vegetarian restaurant in Graz. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Ironically, we didn’t need a week to connect with the food of Graz. Instead, it took just one one bite of backhendl, Austria’s famous fried chicken, to win us over on our first night in the city.

But, as the days turned into a week, our connection continued to strengthen.

Apples at Bauernmarkt Kaiser-Josef-Platz in Graz
Eating local products is easy in Graz thanks to markets like Bauernmarkt Kaiser-Josef-Platz where we found this selection of apples. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

As we quickly discovered, Graz’s local food movement is nothing new.

Instead, the people of Graz have embraced culinary sustainability for decades, if not longer. We experienced the city’s commitment to local food every time we spoke to passionate producers at markets, ate local apples and dined at restaurants run by talented, committed chefs.

Food-Focused Things To Do In Graz

Smoothies at Hotel Gollner in Graz
We stopped to sip these smoothies in Graz. Made with fresh fruit and local herbs, they were delish. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Many touring travelers breeze through Graz in a day or two on their way to Vienna. While we get the desire to see as many cities as possible, we don’t recommend this approach.

Graz is a city that warrants a longer stay. Food travelers who visit in August can attend the Long Table, the city’s premier ‘foodie’ event which occurs one day each year. Meanwhile, autumnal travelers can check out the city’s annual truffle festival.

Don’t worry if you missing both of these events – there are plenty of food-focused things to in Graz during the rest of the year. These are our favorites:

1. Eat Traditional Food At Local Graz Restaurants

Backhendl at Der Steirer in Graz
We knew we were in for a culinary adventure after we took our first bites of backhendl at Der Steirer. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Graz restaurants serve a range of food from vegetarian dishes to pizza. However, intrepid travelers will want to eat as much Austrian food as possible.

One option is to visit restaurants like Der Steirer which serves Austrian classics like backhandl and goulash as well as well as Styrian tapas. Or you could visit Gut Schlossberg, a gourmet grocery that sells products from 100+ Austrian producers and has an upstairs tasting room.

Belegte Brote Selection at Frankowitsch in Graz
Graz’s miniature belegte brote sandwiches are fun to eat between meals. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Another option is to eat open-faced sandwiches called belegte brote at Frankowitsch, a local Graz institution since 1932. The cicchetti-like canapes are fun to eat and pair well with little glasses of beer. You can alternatively eat pastries at Frankowitsch if you have a sweet tooth.

Discover the best Graz restaurants.

2. Taste Pumpkin Seed Oil During A Food Tour

Pumpkin Seed Oil Tasting at Fachl in Graz
Tasting nutty pumpkin seed oil is a must in Graz. If you’re lucky, you can also sample basil pesto made with pumpkin see oil. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

A mainstay in Styrian cuisine, pumpkin seed oil called kürbiskernöl is easy to find in Graz. The nutty oil has a unique flavor and can be used is many ways from salad dressings to soups. Once you taste it, you’ll probably want to buy a bottle as an edible souvenir.

Owner of Fachl in Graz
Markus Gross posed proudly next to a variety of local products available for purchase at his ‘s Fachl. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Our food tour with local food blogger Manuela Pucher was an interactive experience that took us to markets, food stands and stores. We even ate ice cream cones. However, the tour highlight was easily our stop at ‘s Fachl, one of Graz’s most inspired food stores which sells local food products on a consignment basis.

We sampled pumpkin seed oil as well as pumpkin seed pesto, pumpkin seed candy and pumpkin eggnog during our tasting at ‘s Fachl. The pumpkin seed oil was so tasty that we returned and bought a bottle.

3. Meet Local Producers

Owner of Buschenschank Kremser-Greitbauer in Graz Region
Bernhard Kremser-Greittbauer continues his family’s wine legacy at Kremser-Greitbauer Buschenschank. The Styrian wine operation operates a buschenschank (a specially licensed wine pub) during the warmer months of the year. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

It’s one thing to taste local products and it’s another to meet the people who make them. We met several during our visit.

Our biggest takeaway – the Graz commitment to sustainability is for real. Our other biggest takeaway – local Graz products taste even better at the source.

We were inspired when we met Bernhard Kremser-Greittbauer whose family has been hand-harveting grapes since 1900. Then there’s the team at Tax Dairy Farm who produce milk and cheese which they sell at their farm. And we certainly can’t forget Sigmund & Gisela Rosenkopf who passionately produce honey, including a special chestnut honey, from 140 beehives.

Honey Selection at Rosenzopf in Graz Region
We sampled these three honeys – flower, chestnut and forest – at the Rosenkopf bee farm. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Don’t worry if you can’t get out of the city to take a similar day trip. You can easily meet producers at Graz’s urban markets. However, do try to get into the Graz countryside if you can.

It’s a gorgeous part of the world that you really should experience at least once in your life. Maybe twice.

4. Break For Pastries At The City’s Oldest Bakery

Schlosbergkugel in Front of Hofbackerei Edegger-Tax in Graz
Hofbäckerei Edegger-Tax is a great spot to eat Austrian pastries, like this schlosbergkugel, in Graz. The bakery’s historic wood-crafted entrance is a bonus attraction. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Although pastries are easy to find in Graz, it’s worth the effort to visit Hofbäckerei Edegger-Tax, a bakery with a recorded history that dates back to 1569. Its building is ornate and historic, but the building isn’t the primary reason to climb a small hill to nosh at Hofbäckerei Edegger-Tax.

That reason is the bakery’s wonderful pastries.

We ordered a small smorgasbord of sweets during our visit for ‘research’ purposes. While we agreed that the chocolate-covered schlosbergkugel was special, we also give high marks to the bakery’s mozartkugel and linzer cookies.

5. Bite Into A Steier Hot Dog

Steirer Hot Dog at Standl 5 in Graz
We dreamed about this Steirer hot dog after we ate it at Standl 5. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

The Steirer hot dog is unique.

It’s basically a sausage that’s wrapped in bacon and served in a bun with pumpkin seed oil, mayonnaise, horseradish, onion, and lettuce. Somehow, these disparate ingredients come together to create a sandwich that’s incredibly satisfying.

Sure, you could order a more simple wurst at one of the city’s many würstelstände but you could do that anywhere in Austria. The better option is to open wide and eat the unique Steirer hot dog at a spot like Standl 5 instead.

6. Eat, Drink And Be Merry At A Buschenschank

Buschenschank Kremser-Greitbauer in Graz Region
We pinched ourselves more than once during our stop at Kremser-Greitbauer Buschenschank. The combination of local wine, local food and epic views was simply breathtaking. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Some of our favorite wine regions are in beautiful parts of the world like Stellenbosch and Portugal. We can now add the Styrian countryside just outside of Graz to this list. However, Styria’s wine country offers an added benefit – buschenschanken.

If you’re wondering what a buschenschank is, the best way to find out is to visit one in the Graz countryside. Located at Styrian wineries, buschenschanken are basically taverns that can only sell the winery’s products, none of which can be served hot. Seriously, this is the local law and it couldn’t result in a more sustainable or delightful dining experience.

When you visit a buschenschank like Kremser-Greitbauer Buschenschank, expect to eat brettljause boards topped with a melange of cured meat, cheese, eggs, peppers and smoked fish. As for drinking, local wine is the obvious and only choice to make while you watch the sun slowly set in one of the world’s most beautiful wine regions.

Pro Tip
Consider hiring a driver to take you to one or more buschenschank. This approach will allow you to appreciate the full buschenschank experience since it’s neither cool nor legal to drink and drive.

7. Shop At Local Markets

Carrots at Bauernmarkt Kaiser-Josef-Platz in Graz
We spotted these carrtos at Bauernmarkt Kaiser-Josef-Platz where the vegetable bounty is both colorful and fresh. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

It didn’t take us long to discover Graz’s largest market, the Kaiser Josef Markt located near the city’s opera house and just blocks from our hotel. We returned again and again to ogle at stands that sell a rainbow of vegetables as well as pumpkin seed oil, cheese, meat and apples.

As we quickly learned, the market closes at 1pm sharp except on Sundays and holidays when it doesn’t open at all. We also learned that the city’s Lendplatz market, located in a vibrant neighborhood located on the other side of the Mur River, has the same schedule.

These markets teem with seasonal items like white asparagus in the spring as well as brilliant red radishes and an assortment of locally produced cheeses and smoked charcuterie. When you visit both markets, you’ll likely want to linger with a glass of wine or a cup of coffee when you do. At least that’s what we did.

8. Drink All The Coffee

Flat White at Cafe Greenhouse in Graz
We drank enough coffee in Graz to find our favorite coffee shops and cafes. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

As we expected, Graz has a coffee culture, dating back more than a century, which celebrates darkly roasted cups of coffee and decadent Austrian pastries. While we’re into the pastries, we can’t say the same about the the robusta coffee served at the city’s historic cafes.

Luckily, Graz has more specialty coffee options than we expected. These cafes serve what Americans call third wave coffee. Whatever you want to call it, we seek this kind of coffee wherever we travel.

Murinsel in Graz
It’s impossible to miss Murinsel, a cafe that’s located on a floating island in the middle of the Mur River. Designed by architect Vito Aconci in 2003, the striking cafe is worth a visit whether or not your’e coffee drinker. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Whether you have similar coffee tastes as us or prefer classic coffee drinks, you should try as many local cafes as possible. Actually, you don’t have a choice since Graz doesn’t currently have any Starbucks locations. We consider this omission to be a good thing!

Discover the best Graz cafes and coffee shops.

More Fun Things To Do In Graz

Graz Selfie
We smiled a lot in Graz since we felt at home during our week-long visit. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

While we visited Graz with a specific goal related to its food scene, we were pleased to discover that Austria’s second largest city is both rich with culture and easy to navigate. Not only does a river literally run through it, but Graz’s center is filled with buildings that span the centuries.

These are our favorite things to do between meals in Graz and the ones you shouldn’t miss:

9. Wander Around The Historic City

Graz Buildings
Graz buildings have character honed over the centuries. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Despite its relatively compact size, the city of Graz packs a charming punch. Some its most famous sites are located in the historic center while many Graz gems require a short scenic walk to districts like Lend and Gries. Other require a bus or train ride.

Slowly exploring the city allowed us to discover intricate carvings on doors and entranceways. Yes, many of Graz’s most impressive architectural details are hiding in plain sight.

One of Graz’s most iconic sits is its centuries-old clock which perches on top of the Schlossberg. We saw it up close after our leisurely lunch at Aiola Upstairs and then from afar the rest of the week. It’s a bit of a hike to the clock but there’s an elevator that whisks passengers straight up for a nominal fee.

Aiola Upstairs’ sister restaurant Landhausekeller is next to another key site – the Landhaus. This 16th century building is still standing and its courtyard is worth a visit. The Romanesque Landhaus’ columns are hard to miss, though the best view of the site may be from the Landeszeughaus Armor Museum.

10. Appreciate Art At The Friendly Alien

View from Kunsthaus in Graz
The views from the Friendly Alien transported us to another world. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

It’s impossible to miss Graz’s Kunsthaus museum located on the ‘other’ side of the Mur River. Open since 2003, the year that Graz was named the European Capital of Culture, locals gave it the nickname friendly alien due to the building’s wacky appearance which resembles a space ship.

This modern art house doesn’t have a permanent collection; however, it’s well worth visiting if the current exhibit appeals to you. As for us, we enjoyed a wonderful retrospective about art and feminism while we were there.

Art Display at Kunsthaus in Graz
Provocative paintings like Marjorie Strider’s Welcome 1963 filled the walls at the Kunsthaus during our visit. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

The submarine-like Kunsthaus is a work of art in its own right. Plus, it offers epic views of Graz that can’t be replicated elsewhere..

There’s yet another benefit unrelated to art or architecture. This museum has an indoor/outdoor cafe that serves impossible-to-resist cakes and other snacks.

11. Get Regal At The Eggenberg Palace

Eggenberg Palace Entrance Near Graz
Since they don’t build palaces like Eggenberg Palace any more, visiting this one a must. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Located just outside the city limits, Eggenberg is a magnificent baroque 17th century palace originally commisioned for imperial governor Hans Ulrich von Eggenberg. It was also a harmonious reaction to the chaos of the 16th century.

Eggenberg purposely built the structure with the calendar and universe in mind. The palace has 365 windows, 31 rooms on each floor and 24 state rooms as well as 52 doors, 60 windows and four corner towers

Der Planetensaal at Eggenberg Palace near Graz
We spent much of our time looking up in the Eggenberg Palace’s planet room. You’ll want to do the same during your palace tour. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Our tour guide transported us back through the centuries with her stories about the family who lived in the palace until there were no longer any Eggenberg heirs to continue the legacy.

The palace is located in the center of a wonderful park with a series of rooms that surround a central courtyard. Its main hall, called the planet room, is a showstopper with paintings symbolizing the seven known planets surrounding the opulent hall.

Pro Tip
You can only enter the planetensaal if you take a tour of the palace.

12. Get Your Guard Up At The Styrian Armory Museum

Display at Landeszeughaus Armor Museum in Graz
These pieces are a tip of the armor iceberg at the Styrian Armory Museum. The specialized museum stores more than 30 thousand pieces on wooden shelves. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

A museum dedicated to ancient armor sounds like it might be boring. Graz’s landeszeughaus (i.e. arsenal) is the opposite with 32,000 objects from the 15th to the 18th century meticulously stored in the museum’s four floors.

Perusing those four floors reveals the world’s largest of collection of authentic ancient armor including suits of armor designed for both for people and horses. The museum also contains a massive collection of swords, shields and firearms.

While we can’t say that we’re experts on the world of armor, we were awed by the huge collection of weaponry. We also wondered how the floors could hold such a heavy collection of metal without collapsing. It’s a mystery.

13. Visit The Lippizaner Stud Farm In Nearby Piber

Horses in Pen at Lipizzanergestuut Piber in Graz Region
We got up close and personal with these two horses at the Lipizzan stud farm. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

If you have time to visit the Lipizzan stud farm in Piber, we say go for it. Located 50 kilometers (approximately 32 miles) from Graz, this farm is the breeding site for Vienna’s famous Spanish Riding School.

Originally launched in what’s now Slovenia in 1560 with horses imported from Spain, the famous stud farm uses a scientific approach to prevent the extinction of Austria’s prized ponies. Though only ten percent of the horses bred here make it to Vienna, others are prized around the world for their trainability and longevity.

Pro Tip
Take a carriage ride after you tour the farm’s museum and stable. Doing so will give you an added appreciation for the powerful horses as well as Styria’s beautiful hills.

14. Pay Respects At The Church Of St. Barbara

St Barbara Church Steeple in Graz Region
We gazed with awe at both the mosaic designs and religious symbolism at the Church of St. Barbara. The structure is a feast for both the eyes and soul. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Located in Bärnbach, just 2.5 kilometers (approximately 1.5 miles) from the Lippizaner stud farm, the St. Barbara Church is well worth a quick visit.

Designed by Friedensreich Hundertwasser, the bodacious church is covered in mosaics and filled with symbolic icons. It’s also worth wandering through the interdenominational gardens which surround the church. Be sure to check out the gates that salute all the religions of the world. There’s even a gate for atheists.

Pro Tip
Head behind the church to see the Moses Foundation built in 1980 with 420,000 pebbles and 144,000 glass mosaic pebbles. It’s just a few blocks from the church.

15. Shop Til You Drop

Kastner a Ohler Graz in Graz
Stopping in Kastner and Ohler is a must whether you’re a shopper or not. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

While we often eschew shopping when we travel, we couldn’t skip shopping in Graz. And not just one type of shopping.

Kastner and Ohler, the city’s largest store which dates back to 1873, enticed us with its beautiful space and rooftop cafe. However, we equally enjoyed shopping at smaller stores that we encountered while exploring the city.

We have only one regret about purchasing a bottle of pumpkin seed oil and a pair of Reidel coupe glasses during our Graz shopping expeditions. We wish we had bought more of both.

Graz Logistics

Tram in Graz
Traveling within Graz is a breeze thanks to the city’s public transportation system. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

European travelers can travel to Graz though some may need to connect in cities like Frankfurt, Munich and Vienna. The city’s airport offers flights via both premium and discount airline carriers.

Upon arrival, it’s easy to navigate the city’s network of trams and buses. Walking is also a great option since many of the best Graz’s best restaurants and attractions are located in or near the city center.

Hotel Gollner in Graz
You’ll want to book a hotel when you plan a trip to Graz. We stayed at the Hotel Gollner during our trip. | Image: ©2foodtrippers

Graz Planning Checklist

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About the Authors

Daryl and Mindi Hirsch

Saveur Magazine’s BEST TRAVEL BLOG award winners Daryl and Mindi Hirsch share their culinary travel experiences and recipes on the 2foodtrippers website. Since launching the site in 2012, they’ve traveled to over 40 countries in their quest to bring readers a unique taste of the world.


Article Updates
We update our articles regularly. Some updates are major while others are minor link changes and spelling corrections. Let us know if you see anything that needs to be updated in this article.

We were hosted at some (but not all) of the experiences featured in this article with no express expectation of coverage.

We thank Visit Graz for sponsoring our visit as part of Captivate Digital Media‘s Travel Deeper campaign. We also thank the Hotel Gollner for their hospitality when we stayed at the hotel both during and after the campaign.

Original Publication Date: July 24, 2022

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