Mapo Tofu

The word Mapo literally translates to Pockmarked.

Legend has it that around the turn of the 19th into the 20th century, a grandmother, whose face was pocked with smallpox scars, dished out the special stewed tofu in Chengdu, Sichuan’s capital. So it’s fair to assume that the loose translation of the dish is “Pockmarked Grandmothers Tofu.”

In western culture, most people would find this term highly insulting; however, the word could have a more open meaning in China. It could mean impoverished or down on your luck. We don’t know for sure. If the grandmother lived in New York or San Francisco, we may have called the dish the Poor Mrs. Chen’s Tofu. Without a time machine to truly see Mapo Tofu’s origins, we don’t know what’s true and what’s false.

Our best guess it that the dish originated from a stand run by a Sichuan grandmother and that this particular grandmother had excellent taste in food.

So what is this legendary Sichuan creation known as Mapo Tofu?

Is it a stir fry? Sure. It’s created in a wok and involves a high heat synthesis of chili infused oil, Sichuan flower pepper, tofu and ground meat. But there’s something richer about the dish that belies a simple toss in the wok.

Is it soup? Yes, the addictive liquor created in Mapo tofu can be eaten with a spoon. We’re sure that many Chinese have eaten the dish in a bowl this way sans rice. But the dish can be so piquant and flavorful that to eat it straight may cause a bit of mouth overkill.

Is it a stew? Here we may be onto something. To us, the dish’s comforting elements, deep flavors and rich textures mix so well with rice that you might be tempted to eat the combo multiple times a week.

Mapo Tofu is built with soft, comforting tofu as the star.

In the background, a special paste of fermented fava beans mixed with red Sichuan chilies called Doubanjiang provides the dish with deep umami backbone. Meanwhile, at the surface, numbing, almost menthol-like flavors of Sichuan flower peppers harmonize with searing, piquant capsaicin heat from chilies.

And let’s not forget the addition of ground meat. Grandma may have loved tofu but she also wanted to make sure her children didn’t starve. Vegetarians could omit the protein but that’s not how Grandma rolled.

So let’s call it a Sichuan stew that literally takes less than an hour to prepare. A stew in less than an hour? Miraculous! With a few Asian pantry ingredients, a block of tofu and a small amount of ground meat, you’re all set to create a nourishing meal or a featured dish at your next dinner party.

Here’s what you need to make Mapo Tofu at home:

Five of these ingredients form the cornerstone for great Mapo Tofu: Sichuan pepper, Red Chili Pepper (we used chili powder), Spicy Chili Bean Paste (Doubanjiang 豆瓣醬), Tofu and Ground Meat. The other ingredients complete the dish.

Pro Tip
Buy the best available condiments. While there are various brands selling Chinese soy sauce, black vinegar, Chinese cooking wine and sugar, we’ve found that what you put into the dish directly impacts what ends up on your plate.

Some sites call for Silken Tofu but we use Soft Tofu in our recipe.

Silken Tofu, which can be highly fragile, may break too much when you cook it. Soft Tofu should be more than soft enough and still requires a certain degree of cautious handling, especially when it’s simmered. Please note that some silken tofu can be soft. Since it’s all a bit confusing, it may be best to test different tofus in order to find the ideal product.

Pro Tip
Stay away from Firm Tofu. While the firm product is far more durable, its rigid firmness will detract from the dish.

You may be wondering what type of meat to use in this recipe.

We prefer ground pork in our recipe since pork fat provides extra oil and richness. We’ve also used ground beef and that works well too. We have yet to use ground turkey and may try that protein in the future.

Also known as spicy broad bean paste, Sichuan Doubanjiang provides a unique spicy backbone to Mapo Tofu. The deep crimson (almost brown) paste also gives the dish its deep red color.

Buy a jar of Pixian Doubanjiang, our favorite brand, from Amazon.

The husks of Sichuan flower peppers (which are a form of citrus) from the prickly ash tree impart the unique numbing flavor that’s a staple of Sichuan cuisine.

Sichuan pepper can vary in quality. The better pepper you can find, the better the final dish will taste. You’ll also want to find peppers that are cleaned of black seeds. Not only are these seeds bitter, but cleaning them from the husks can be a major chore.

Buy a bag of Sichuan flower peppers from Amazon if you don’t have them in your Asian pantry.

We toast our Sichuan peppers lightly in the work and then grind them in an electric coffee grinder (the kind with the blades).

We use homemade chili powder in our Mapo Tofu recipe. Not everybody does the same.

YouTube chef Wang Gang uses a special method called knife chili in which he fries fresh and dried chilies to a crunch and then chops them to a course powder with a Chinese cleaver. The noted site Woks of Life uses fresh red chilies and fries them with the base oil used in the dish. These are both great methods; however the amount of burning heat generated by chilies can vary widely by type, freshness and amount.

We’ve found that making chili powder at home using a combination of dried Chinese chilies gives us maximum heat. In our view, capsaicin heat is fairly consistent in flavor across a wide spectrum of red chili varietals. If you only have super hot cayenne pepper powder, that should work in this recipe.

Pro Tip
Since chili heat tolerance varies from person to person, we recommend starting with about a quarter teaspoon of chili powder and go from there. As you make this dish, you can experiment with fresh hot chilies or you can make a chili powder of your own.

Soy Sauce, Shaoxing Wine and Chinkiang Vinegar are the condiments/sauces that make Mapo Tofu taste “Chinese.”

The flavors of Soy Sauce and Shaoxing Cooking Wine are unmistakable. We also use the Shaoxing wine to deglaze the bottom of the wok. Chinkiang or black vinegar adds a bit of necessary acidity to the dish.

Purchase Asian condiments from Amazon.

You can omit the black beans if you like but the soft texture and mellow flavor of these fermented soy beans add another dimension to the dish.

Buy fermented black beans from Amazon if you need this ingredient.

You can use a simple flavored broth to liquify the sauce. We use a quarter of a bouillon cube. If you have homemade chicken broth, we encourage using it in this recipe.

Pro Tip
You can also use water but the final flavors won’t be so rich.

If you use a carbon steel wok, you’ll want to condition the wok by heating it until it smokes, applying a thin layer of oil and then dumping the conditioning layer. (If you have a teflon wok, pretreatment is not necessary but you won’t be able to cook at the same high temperatures.)

Buy a carbon steel wok and wok tools from Amazon if you need a wok for this and other recipes.

Then cut squares vertically and horizontally. Your squares should be about 1 1/2 inches each.

Place the cut tofu in a deep bowl.

Boil hot water in a kettle or on your stove and gently pour it over the tofu. Let the tofu sit in the water for at least 10 minutes or until your ready to cook.

This step will eliminate the tofu’s raw flavor. Make sure you strain the tofu before you start cooking. Every minute counts once you start cooking in the wok.

Deglaze the sauce with the cooking wine and then add the soy sauce and vinegar.

Next, add the salt, sugar, black beans and optional MSG to the wok.

Place the cornstarch in a small bowl and mix with a small amount of water (about a couple tablespoons) to create a slurry. Gently drizzle the cornstarch slurry into the wok.

Cook until a desired thickness is reached.