See what it’s like to eat at Ze dos Cornos, a traditional Portuguese tasca in Lisbon’s Mouraria neighborhood.
Located near Praça da Figueira where Alfama ends and Mouraria begins, Zé dos Cornos feels local despite its prime location near Castelo São Jorge. The restaurant’s space is compact with communal seating at long tables and a rustic tasca decor.
But the space’s simplicity doesn’t matter one iota. It’s a Lisbon institution.
Zé dos Cornos attracts a mixed crowd of locals and tourists. They appreciate the tasca’s efficient service as well as its fairly priced dishes.
Pro Tip
Plan your visit wisely. Zé dos Cornos doesn’t accept credit cards, is only open for dinner two nights a week (Friday and Saturday) and is closed on Sunday.
Food at Ze dos Cornos
Zé dos Cornos serves a selection of Portuguese food favorites to crowds who arrive early for lunch or dinner depending on the time of day. Those who arrive later need to wait for a table.
Popular dishes include bacalhau (salt cod) and pork sercretos (a secret cut of black pork – shhh!). But plates topped with spare ribs and fried potatoes fly out of the kitchen for two good reasons – the tasty ribs are both generously sized and tender.
Consider ordering the tasca‘s version of alheira.
Portugal’s grilled non-pork sausage has a history that dates back to the 16th century. Jews invented the farce during the days of the Inquisition and would hang the ‘sausage’ from their balconies to ward off potential inquisitors. At Zé dos Cornos, the historic dish comes topped with a fried egg.
Zé dos Cornos is located at Beco dos Surradores 5, 1100-591 Lisboa, Portugal.
Ze dos Cornos FAQs
Since Ze dos Cornos doesn’t take reservations, be prepared to wait for a table unless you get lucky or arrive when the restaurant opens.
Most diners will be satisfied with a starter and main dish at Ze dos Cornos while others will want to add a couvert and dessert. It all depends on your appetite and budget.
Expect to spend around 20€ for a two-course meal at Ze dos Cornos. However, you could spend more or less depending on how much you order.
No. Tipping is optional in Portugal.
Ze dos Cornos doesn’t have a dress code. We recommend causal attire.
Ze dos Cornos is a three-minute walk from the Martim Moniz metro station. Other Lisbon transit options include walking, buses, trams, taxis and car share services.
Hungry for More in Lisbon?
Eating in Portugal is fun! Check out our picks for Lisbon’s best restaurants, brunch spots, pizzerias, pastel de nata bakeries, specialty coffee cafes and ice cream shops. Then check our our restaurant reviews of Belcanto, Café de São Bento, Cervejaria Ramiro, Petisco Saloio, Ponto Final, Prado, Tasca Baldracca and Zunzum Gastrobar. If you’re limited in time, consider sampling a range of Lisbon food favorites at the Time Out Market.
About the Authors
Daryl & Mindi Hirsch
Saveur Magazine’s BEST TRAVEL BLOG award winners Daryl and Mindi Hirsch share their culinary travel experiences and recipes on the 2foodtrippers website and YouTube. The married Food and Travel content creators live in Lisbon, Portugal.
Original Publication Date: April 11, 2023