Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers opera house l'opera

Living like Locals – Lyon

In Food Tripping, France by Daryl & Mindi Hirsch10 Comments

After living in Lyon like locals for the for the past month, here are our tips for getting the most out of the wonderful French city with an emphasis on food.

Lyon, the third largest city in France, has a wealth of culture and gastronomy. Find out how to live like a local when you visit Lyon.
Lyon as Viewed from Fourviere. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

Lyon as Viewed from Fourviere

As we near the end of our month in Lyon (how did that happen?!), we are marveling at the way we’ve adapted so well to the Lyonnaise lifestyle. We came to Lyon for our second visit as different people. We experienced the city before, but only for three quick days. Lyon is like an onion, and now we’ve had time to begin peeling away its many layers.

For this visit, our second, we are full-time food and travel journalists working to build a business. Our approach to Lyon is different this time, and we’ve figured out the best ways to explore this glorious city situated along the confluence of the Rhone and the Saone Rivers.

Ten Simple Tips for Living in Lyon like a Local

Skip the Hotels and Stay at an Airbnb Apartment

Lyon has a well-deserved reputation for being one of the great gastronomical food cities of the world. Although a lot of the city’s great food can be eaten in restaurants, even more of it is sold for reasonable prices at local markets and shops. We’re talking about fruit plucked right from the tree and meat from animals raised with care from farms all over France. When we first visited Lyon, we couldn’t help but marvel at the extraordinary Bresse chickens (aka Poulet de Bresse) and the golden Girolle mushrooms that had been freshly foraged from the nearby Alps. Even a simple green salad can be a major eating experience here. And let’s not forget the fresh eggs with their bright orange yolks that somehow taste richer than the eggs we buy at home.

It's fun to cook in a Lyon apartment because the local products are so fresh and flavorful. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

It’s fun to cook in a Lyon apartment because the local products are so fresh and flavorful.

Staying at an Airbnb apartment for our second visit has given us access to a kitchen, allowing us to take full advantage of living in Lyon and enjoying the city’s wonderful bounty of local food. We’ve been able to buy and cook amazing foods like duck breast (Magret de Canard) for a fraction of the cost we pay at home. We have also savored beautiful, white asparagus with roots that slowly morph in color along the stem from white to purplish green as well as grass-fed, aged beef from Aubrac. In addition, we’ve found that many products like sweet haricot verts and bibb lettuce are fresher here, staying green and crunchy for over a week.

Magret de Canard as Prepared by Daryl in our Apartment. The luxurious duck breasts cost a fraction of what they do in the United States. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

Magret de Canard as Prepared by Daryl in our Apartment. The luxurious duck breasts cost a fraction of what they do in the United States.

We’re trying to imagine the autumn and the wonderful selection of fruit and vegetables, especially the mushrooms, that the season will bring. Hopefully, we’ll be back with recipes in hand, ready to eat!

Tasting Tip: Rent an apartment with an oven and stove. Although these appliances are the norm in the USA, they are not a given for rentals in Lyon.

Shop at Local Markets

Lyon has great markets every day of the week except Monday. These markets are the perfect place to stock up on fresh eggs, meats, cheeses, produce and much more.

Scenes from the Paul Bocuse Market include large cuts of Aubrac beef and gorgeous pyramidal terrines of foie gras. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

Scenes from the Paul Bocuse Market include large cuts of Aubrac beef and gorgeous pyramidal terrines of foie gras.

The biggest and best market is Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, which houses some of the best artisan producers in the area. Named after the city’s legendary Michelin 3 *** chef, this market has a selection of fresh and prepared foods that will knock your socks off and make you drool. Walk through the northern entrance and marvel at Rolle whose refrigerator cases are filled with glossy pyramids of foie gras and conical orange salmon terrines. At the center of the market, check out House Merle with oysters for sale from locales like Normandy’s Utah Beach and Isigny. Or stroll into the south entrance and feast your eyes upon the gorgeous, museum-worthy pastries from House Sève. Do you want to try Bresse chickens? They’re available for sale from at least 3 different vendors. Cote de Boeuf? Sink your teeth into brontosaurus sized cuts of Boeuf d’Abrac from Giroud/Perrier.

Violet Asparagus are for sale right now at the Croix Rousse market. This seasonal delicacy is one of the highlights of spring shopping in the open air markets of Lyon. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

Violet Asparagus are for sale right now at the Croix Rousse market. This seasonal delicacy is one of the highlights of spring shopping in the open air markets of Lyon.

Let’s not forget Lyon’s wonderful outdoor markets. They’re our first go-to for fresh produce and specialties from small farms and vendors.  Along the river Saone,  Marché Saint-Antoine sets up shop 6 days a week.  Marché de Croix Rousse provides a smaller, more intimate shopping experience just off the top of a hill overlooking the city. At both markets, the freshest fruits and vegetables are sold along with a dizzying variety of saucisson and cheese. Go on busier days and you’ll see cooked items like rotisserie chickens and hams. There are even local wine producers from nearby Beaujolais offering tastings. These markets also provide amazing scenery. The colorful vendors will make you feel both at home and also somewhere special.

Tasting Tip:  Bring a canvas bag with you to the market. Not only will this make your walk home easier, but it will also give you instant credibility with the market vendors.

Go Out to Lunch and Stay in for Dinner

Let’s face it. In general, French restaurants aren’t cheap, plus it’s almost impossible to score a reservation on short notice at Lyon’s better eateries. Attempting to make a dinner reservation at popular spots like Takao Takano and PRaiRiaL is near impossible without a few weeks notice.

Luckily, Lyon restaurants all offer lunch menus.

These lunches are generously sized with two or three courses for around €30, often with choices of dessert and a cheese course. The dining stalwarts have to keep their reputations high, so there’s no discernible drop off in quality for lunch. At our recent lunch at PRaiRiaL, we dined on beautifully plated food like the fabulous, flavorful cod in a velvety carrot purée and roast chicken dancing over garlic and herb foam. Plus, lunches bring in a gregarious Lyonnais business crowd that’s open to conversation with the strangers at the next table.

Roast Chicken Plate at PRaiRiaL. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

Roast Chicken Plate at PRaiRiaL

Since you’re not eating out for dinner, there are plenty of take out options – the word ’emporter’ flies above many a falafel shop and sushi joint. One of our favorites, rotisseur Comptoir du Poulet in the Northern Presqu’ile neighborhood, cooks special farm raised birds from Ardeche in classic style, letting the juices from the cooked chickens drip on the potatoes roasting below. They’ll even cook you a Bresse chicken with 24 hours notice.

Tasting Tip: Be sure to make a reservation for all meals including lunches and attempt to make your reservations in person. The French will appreciate the effort and will be more likely to reward you with a table.

Buy a Fresh Baguette Every Morning

Boulangeries are a feature of French life, dotting just about every street block and with good reason – the French arguably make the best bread in the world. There’s no better example of this than baguettes, the long, crusty flavorful torpedoes that make for a great sandwich as well as a vehicle for eating cheese and charcuterie at all times of the day. As an added bonus, baguettes are cheap in France. You can generally purchase a baguette for around €1.10 and sometimes for less.

When we arrived in Lyon, we were thrilled that one of our favorite boulangeries and Paris stalwart, Maison Kayser, was just a couple blocks from our apartment. Their bread and baguettes are great but sometimes inconsistent when compared to some of the local bakers of Lyon that we’ve discovered. (Since arriving, we’ve raised our bar on what constitutes great bread.)

We did a lot of taste testing to find our favorite baguette at Le Pain d'Hippolyte. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

We did a lot of taste testing to find our favorite baguette at Le Pain d’Hippolyte.

After weeks of exploration and tasting, we were lucky to find our favorite bread at Le Pain d’Hippolyte. This boulangerie’s breads are sold at a tight wood-paneled bread counter that also features, croissants, amazing homestyle eclairs and a kick-ass Paris Brest. Look for baguettes fermenture; rustic baguettes risen with natural yeast (often referred to as sourdough in American bakespeak.) Their bread is crunchy with earthy flavors and a wonderful, uniform crumb that’s not too airy.

Tasting Tip: Most boulangeries close on Sunday so make sure you stock up on two to three on Saturday in order to have enough for breakfast, lunch and dinner on Sunday and into Monday.

Become a Regular at a Local Coffee Shop

Julien da Silva prepares our filtered coffee at Puzzle Coffee in Lyon's Presqu'ile neighborhood. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

Julien da Silva prepares our filtered coffee at Puzzle Coffee in Lyon’s Presqu’ile neighborhood.

Lyon, like most major cities, has a thriving coffee scene. We sniffed out one of our favorites, Puzzle Cafe, by following the glib American style chalkboard coffee sign on the sidewalk. Once inside, we were able to order pour over coffee extracted through a Hario V60. We have become regulars at the shop, staking out the long wooden table in the very back where we do much of our work. This shop is a great place for us to work, talk to other travelers and drink quality coffee.

Coffee breaks are the norm in Lyon when you're living like a local. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

Coffee breaks are the norm in Lyon when you’re living like a local.

We also like Slake, just a couple blocks away from Puzzle as well as both Mami across the Rhone in the southeast section of town and La Bicycletterie on the hill leading to Croix Rousse.

Tasting Tip: Many of the new ‘hipster’ coffee shops feature baristas and expat customers who speak English if you suffer a brief moment of homesickness.

Talk to Strangers While You’re Living in Lyon

Talking to strangers has resulted in cool experiences like La Cochonnaille a l'International with a local rugby club. Photo courtesy of Le Progrèss. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

Talking to strangers has resulted in cool experiences like La Cochonnaille a l’International with a local rugby club. Photo courtesy of Le Progrèss.

Despite our limited French language skills, we have had great success in talking with strangers in Lyon. Most people are intrigued to meet American tourists and appreciate that we are trying to communicate with the local lingo. We have found most people to be helpful with our questions, and many have given us great recommendations for restaurants, shops and things to do. In fact, one Lyonnais local has taken us under his wing; taking us to food oriented events and opening doors to some of the Rhone-Alpes region’s finest producers.

Tasting Tip:  Many of us are taught not to ‘talk to strangers’ when we grow up, but doing so is essential when you’re a foreigner in a city like Lyon.

Walk Everywhere (Or Take a Bike)

Lyon is a walkable city with an endless amount of window shopping and street sights. There are two major hills to check out – Fourviere and Croix Rousse. Unsurprisingly, this is food related advice, not just sightseeing advice. We love to eat, and sometimes, after a having large amount of fromage or saucisson, or too much butter (which is in just about all French food), we love to walk.

You never know what you'll bump into when you take a walk in Lyon. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

You never know what you’ll bump into when you take a walk in Lyon.

Strolling down the banks of the Rhone or the Saone is always a pleasure. It’s also great to walk through the pretty Parc de la Tête d’Or or to hike to the Confluence, Lyon’s home to daring 21st century architecture at the very edge of the Presqu’ile. The city also has a popular bike share program and plenty of bike lanes if you prefer biking over walking. 

Tasting Tip:  Wear a fitbit or other fitness device to track your daily steps. Not only will you be surprised by the number of steps you walk each day, but you will also be motivated to walk a little farther to make your daily walking goal. We find it relatively easy to walk at least 10,000 steps each day.

Savor a Drink at an Outdoor Cafe

Cafe culture is alive in Lyon! Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

Cafe culture is alive in Lyon!

Life in Lyon is good. People often take a two-hour break and then end their days early enough to grab a drink or two after work at the many outdoor cafes clustered around the city. In addition to wine, most bars serve a varied selection of beer and cocktails. These cafes can range in size from a small corner to an entire plaza. The best part: since France is a non-tipping culture, guests often sit for hours nursing one drink. There’s no pressure to order anything – you could even sit on a slow evening and order a bottle of water.

Tasting Tip: Make sure you grab a table before 6 pm. The outdoor seating tends to fill up early, and there isn’t a lot of table turnover.

Drink Wine out of a Box

When we began our daily life in Lyon, we found that it was expensive to buy a bottle of wine every day. In addition, bottles have a limited shelf life. We didn’t want to throw away an entire bottle just because we only wanted to drink a couple glasses in an evening, so we often ended up drinking more than we originally planned.

Enter the almighty box wine.

Boxed wine in Lyon is surprisingly good. Here is the selection at local wine shop Vins Nature. The shop also sells a wide variety of wine in bottles. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

Boxed wine in Lyon is surprisingly good. Here is the selection at local wine shop Vins Nature. The shop also sells a wide variety of wine in bottles.

We know what you’re thinking. Wine in a box? Terrible! While this may be true in the United States, we found an amazing 5 liter box of wine from Provence producer Domaine Jour de Miane for €27. The best part? The wine has a one month shelf life! With its wonderful mouth feel and lush red fruit, it’s our go-to wine for dinner and cooking. One box seemed like so much that we wondered if we could ever drink it all before our departure. That was no problem – we finished it with a week to spare. Whoops! No problem since we were able to buy a 3 liter box for just €17! (A quick aside: Mindi is excellent at nursing her wine and Daryl? – not so much.)

Tasting Tip: Buy the box wine at a local wine shop like Vins Nature in Croix Rousse. The selection is better than the grocery stores, and the prices are similar.

Get a Sim Card

Lyon is a manageable city, especially when you can access Google Maps on your smart phone. Living in Lyon like Locals 2foodtrippers

Lyon is a manageable city, especially when you can access Google Maps on your smart phone.

If you’re lucky enough to have an unlocked phone, you can buy a SIM card from a French phone provider like Orange. (Check for deals – we got a prepaid 1 gigabyte chip of data for 15 days at a cost of €10). As long as you use wi-fi for audio and video downloads and limit your time on data-hogging sites like Facebook, Instagram and YouTube, you should have more than enough data for necessities like mapping and email. You can also use your phone for making restaurant reservations since online reservation systems like Open Table are not very popular in France.

Now that you know how to live like a local in Lyon, you’re probably wondering how and where you should eat. Check out our comprehensive Lyon Food Guide with the food spots you shouldn’t miss in Lyon.


Comments

  1. There is nothing like fresh French bread. It tastes amazing. Anytime I have visited France, I make sure to get a fresh baguette, and to same some fresh pastries. I’ve never been to Lyon, but it looks beautiful, especially the cuisine.

  2. I have not stayed at an Airbnb but Lyon sounds like a perfect place for it. Good tip about checking on the appliances. All the foods you were able to prepare by purchasing direct from the market looked mouth watering!

  3. Eating out in France is definitely expensive, so I’m glad you were able to take advantage of the kitchen in your AirBnB. The food you cooked looked really delicious!

  4. This looks like such a wonderful place. I’ll be spending some time in Paris this fall and hope to make it to Lyon as well. Airbnb seems like the way to go!

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